Monday, October 14, 2024

Shoelace is sub-optimal as an anchor.


 Not to mention the carabiners.

Thursday, October 3, 2024

Unclear on the concept.

Lots of extra rope, bowline on a bight, but a half hitch as a tie off, suboptimal.

Barely hanging on at that point. This is important due to the rest of the anchor.

If that shaky anchor slips, the whole left side started whipping around.
 

Saturday, August 31, 2024

What's the real anchor?


 That little bitty partially. buried rock is the real anchor. If that pops off, the rope will straighten and probably come off the big rock.

Monday, August 26, 2024

Dental floss.

This appears to be 6mm accessory cord. The good news is that it really isn't part of the system. The bad news is that it could easily cut. It is rated as strong enough, but the quartz nubbins could make quick work of it.
 

Wednesday, August 21, 2024

How many twigs should you tie off?

Apparently two is good enough.


If it isn't big enough to be THE anchor, it shouldn't be AN anchor.


Don't leave stuff at the top, especially about $150 in climbing gear. Love the laminated belay anchor card, it probably came with an expensive course.


This yard sale is pretty tempting.

The AMGA used to claim that the BFK was auto-equalizing. Well, no.
 

Saturday, August 3, 2024

What's wrong with this picture?

Picking the dead limb is what we call suboptimal.

If it just hanging limp it is a back up, not equalized.

If you sling both of these blocks, they won't move. If you sling just one, it moves.


 Putting the anchor way up in the tree increases the force on the tree.

Thursday, June 27, 2024

It would be great if it weren't dead.

Eastern cedars have deep roots, but the complete absence of needles tells us it is dead.


Using two independent figure 8's means the anchor really isn't equalized.


How big is that rock? How much is underground?

Webbing used single strand, hardware in breakable rock.
Another mystery rock, this time with single strand webbing.