Wednesday, September 24, 2014

She said," I can't tighten the anchor." See why.

Frist, let's strangle the hikers.

The business end is tied with a clove hitch to the carabiner at the top.

You can see how loose the anchor is. She didn't understand that a clove hitch is madd to be adjustable.

The carabiner have gates away from the rock but not opposed. HVS  carabiners are so prone to cross loading that this may be the best choice.

Sunday, September 21, 2014

Could be worse

Loops of webbing with single lockers as a connection. You might want 2 carabiners but we've had thefts of duplicate carabiners from anchors

At least they had 2 at the climbing rope

Saturday, September 20, 2014

Friday, September 19, 2014

Sort of thought it out.

If the root fails the remaining anchor will have substantial slack and turn into a dynamic fall. Will you hit the ground? Why yes, yes you will.

Sunday, September 14, 2014

Slow Sunday

The tree is doing all the work, the orange runner is just phoning it in.

Here's why.

Nice runner to protect the rope, he just didn't use it.

A mess of webbing, the runner in back is around a small rock.

The  cordelette is around the rock, with 2 carabiners independently tied in with clove hitches.

Friday, September 12, 2014

Harder to anchor.

It is getting harder to get a good anchor. The cam is tightly attached with a clove hitch. Single strand webbing at the right is always a bad idea.

Thursday, September 11, 2014

Not the worst

One stopper, one carabiner...

plus a rainbow of 5 runners girth hitched together. Love the orange runner around the block and the tree root.

A better view.

Monday, September 8, 2014

She said, "You can't be getting all these pictures here." Guess again.

The white rope at center is a 1 inch fuzzy line looking for its boat.

Caver used 2 inch cargo straps as an anchor. How many tons of cargo did they haul before the ended up here?

Tiny tree as part of a spider web of brand new carabiners and webbing


I think the wire gate carabiner is just holding the rope bag in place. The black and red runners are tied into the big locker.

Saturday, September 6, 2014

It must be the heat.


It's a tensionless anchor, which is good since neither knot turned out like they hoped.

The dead tree is irresistible.

He didn't use the bomber thread but 3 cams because he had them. Single biners all around.