Monday, July 31, 2017

Worst idea ever.

Sure it is a big tree ut it is pretty hollow. This guy had to tie one loop around the rope rope rather than a real knot. This is the only anchor, I would have no problem with that if it were bomber.

Yes, tensionless anchors work, not tying of the end is criminal. Fortunately he had another good anchor. If you tie one shit anchor, sooner or later you will tie two.

Sunday, July 9, 2017

Summer's best day? Less so when schools rig everything all day long.

The gym "instructor" rigged the active climbing rope going over sharp edges. The corner on the left developed a pile of red fibers from abrasion.

No, putting the rope above the hollow doesn't make it stronger. The knot at left is grinding  on edges of the boulder.

Monday, July 3, 2017

How many bad anchors make a good anchor?

The rope at bottom isn't bad, the one on the single branch above, not so much.

OK, it is the biggest trunk, but look at those roots. This is not an anchor, this is a bad idea.

Sunday, July 2, 2017

No, this is never OK.

The AMGA may tell you a knot to secure the tail isn't needed on a figure 8, nobody will tell it isn't needed on a bowline.