Saturday, April 30, 2016

Profoundly bad idea.

So, what is the purpose of the yellow runner? How many other things are wrong?

Sunday, April 17, 2016

Must be spring.

It isn't a tensionless anchor, using the carabiner is lazy.

Single carabiner connecting the webbing to the rope.

How many anchors to the same tree are OK? 

The insane flying webbing anchors are becoming a thing. A group was teaching this.


Anchor way off to the side.

Runner and single carabiner.

Saturday, April 16, 2016

Quiet, but still stupid.

Lazy, also, that carabiner was among the models recently recalled.

"Gee that is tree is hollow, so I'll sling it ABOVE the hole."

The climbing rope forms part of the anchor, wide angle weakens it.

Single carabiners, at the top and down towards the climber.

Wednesday, April 13, 2016

If your can't tie a knot, try to tie every knot

Just lazy.

A coupe of loose figure 8s, an overhand, clove hitch, and an attempt at a double overhand.

Sunday, April 10, 2016

Nobody learns knots.

How did they even get the rope that high?

Two overhand loop knots, connected by a carabiner. The rope end isn't secured. 1.16 million carabiners were recalled last month. How about learning a real knot?

Second anchor, just the same.

Wednesday, April 6, 2016

Knot quite

There are overhand knots here and there and it is sort of a tensionless anchor, but nothing is really holding this in place.

Same, when I came by a hour later this had pulled down about three feet.

Sunday, April 3, 2016

Now they're certifiable.

The class has a "high re-direct" anchor at center on a very dead tree.

Anchors 180 degrees apart.

Tri-anxial loading of the carabiner at center, the climbing rope is dragging through the corner.

Really worn webbing.

Throw in some quickdraws, because you have them.

There is a second anchor, both connect to an 8mm cordalette.

Saturday, April 2, 2016

More descending rings.

The rings are rolled aluminum, i.e. hollow. not solid aluminum, not solid steel

Half an hour later, they have fixed half the problem, with all that rope they are using webbing over the rock.

Friday, April 1, 2016

Anchor training, be afraid, be very afraid.

Tied to a dead tree. If you don't know it is dead, the bark gives it away. It is possible that the students tied the next few anchors and the instructors (never seen them before) will critique. The students looked like this year's crop of camp counselors.

Would you really use the small tree when you had rope to go to the big one?

This anchor isn't part of the system until the primary fails.

Lots of big blocks instead of that skinny tree.

Webbing and a single carabiner when they had enough rope. The class was climbing on this.

Carabiners barely over the edge, the anchor at right is poised to fall off the corner.