Saturday, May 28, 2016

More dead tree.

Still standing, still dead.

This root gets used constantly, despite the 3' diameter tree next to it. Note the carabiner instead of a knot on the webbing and the single cam in friable rock.

Thursday, May 26, 2016

Anchors in the air.

The rope is just looped around the tree, no knot, so it is rubbing against the tree damaging the bark.

Wednesday, May 25, 2016

Mr. Danger returns

Cams in friable rock, waist chain, and single strand webbing.

Webbing over sharp edges, single non-locking carabiner, gate toward the rock.

Friday, May 20, 2016

Archimedes is dead.

The rope that high greatly increases the leverage on the tree roots.

Really need a third anchor? The red rope is connected to the main orange anchor with one carabiner right on the edge of the rock.

Thursday, May 19, 2016

Scary rope.

Side-loaded single carabiner.

Not as bad as it looks, but...

Is it a sheepshank, or?

Instructors and their favorite anchor 10 feet off the ground. The blonde is anchored to a dead tree. (Insert joke here.)

Sunday, May 15, 2016

Really scary.

Anchor 4 feet up the tree but the lower anchor has two knots and a carabiner instead of one knot.

Same problem with a runner, single non-locking carabiner, not to mention the 7MM rope.

The only good news here is that the anchor is low enough to be pulling down on the runners. The climbers were moving side to side, ignorant of how directional the anchor was.

Sunday, May 8, 2016

More mystery knots, but they wanted to rig 5.10's.

Clove hitches, carabiners, all unnecessary and ad risk

Clove hitch with mystery knot.

The mystery knots might be half hitches.There is enough green and black rope to go around the anchor, and not use the runners, carabiners, and clove hitches. 

Saturday, May 7, 2016

Can't tie a knot on a bight

Should you ever reduce the safety margin when you don't have to? Two added points of failure. Single carabiner when BD and DMM recently recalled their lockers? Clove hitch when a bowline is just as adjustable? This group had a "guide".