Thursday, January 21, 2021

Learn to tie a bowline with a bight.

The other anchors were bowlines, he had the rope but didn't know how to tie the knot with a bight. Two problems with using carabiners, a single carabiner is a point of failure and, yes, people steal carabiners from anchors. It is more common at Great Falls but not unheard of at Carderock.

Sunday, January 17, 2021

Well, it's a backup.

The nice fat rope is a good anchor, the tiny cord with single wire gate carabiners, not so much. He's using a cam and a nut, prone to ripping right out in the rock. Somebody asked if that was a myth. We live in a city of stone buildings, not one made from this rock, it is never used where it would be weight bearing.


Sunday, January 10, 2021

Another air anchor.

If you must use this tree, how about putting the rope BELOW the weak spot.

Saturday, January 9, 2021

Not what they mean by redundant.

Fortunately the kid climbing on this anchor weighed about 40 pounds, still, dumb is dumb.

Saturday, January 2, 2021

New year, same stuff.

Trying to open that carabiner on the tree stump.
He knows the clove hitch isn't stable, so he clips in a real knot.
A skinny 9MM rope with webbing attempting to rip the tiny tree out by the roots.

Tuesday, December 29, 2020

Sunday, December 27, 2020

If the tree is tiny, put three anchors on it.

 If you're using a dead tree (foreground), back it up with a tiny tree that is an anchor for three climbs.