Sunday, November 13, 2022

Busy weekend, minimal outrage.

 

Flying single strand webbing anchors.

He knew he was being jerk, and did it anyway. That's more of a thing now, thanks gyms.

Saturday, November 5, 2022

Yard sale.

A yard sale is when you dump everything out of your pack, clip it together. and call it an anchor. This one includes thin cord and webbing that can be cut on the rock. 

Is that rock big enough?

A dead stump and a tree with most of the roots exposed.

If you're smart, you don't touch the "refrigerator" because it is way undercut, barely balancing. The wrap around the rock seems to have no knot.

Look up "overhand loop knot", practice it and use it.
 

Tuesday, November 1, 2022

Mystery knots.

 

This appears to be a tautline hitch, which you might use to tie down a tent, not a mission critical climbing anchor.

I have no clue what this is, with the tension wraps it probably won't fail. The knot is grinding up against the rock and the tree is a joke.

Monday, October 24, 2022

Not all clove hitches are equal.

A clove hitch is not stable, this one is poised to loosen. This anchor has two unnecessary points of failure, the carabiner and 7MM cord. A bowline around the tree would be as adjustable, way stronger and safer. 
 

Friday, October 21, 2022

Is your kid hanging off one of these anchors?

 

TWO anchors off a small tree that is barely hanging on by its exposed roots.

Too short an anchor so they connected ropes together. Note the backup for the unstable clove hitch. Why use it in the first place? Someone suggested talking to instructors. In front of their clients? I doin't think they would appreciate that.

Sunday, October 16, 2022

Don't buy stuff on Amazon.

To teach a climbing class at Carderock these days, first, you build a tower.

He started to rappel, then told his partner, "Make sure those gates are locked." If you bought a real rope you could tie a knot. That eyelet has a STEEL liner


This whioe mess depends on one wire gate carabiner.
 

Tuesday, October 11, 2022

Missed by THAT much.

 

Yes, that's the climbing rope dragging over ten feet of rock. They knew the runner sleeve trick, but they got it a TINY bit wrong by putting them on the active climbing rope.

There's a bowline in there somewhere.

This guy had lots of extra rope, but went with an additional carabiner and runner.

This is called a "yard sale" where you lay everything out and clip it together.

More hiker traps.