Saturday, July 4, 2020


He learned the fancy auto block so he doesn't fly off the cliff. Too bad he didn't get the bowline right. This pandemic is courtesy of the AMGA. They said you didn't need a tie off knot.

Thursday, July 2, 2020

The American Mountain Guide's Association will get people killed.

The AMGA told people 6" of tail on a figure 8 was OK without a stopper knot. No surprise we have an epidemic of bowlines without stoppers, very dangerous.

The other anchor was single strand webbing sawing over this rock with every move the climber makes.

Two anchors, one over a loose block at the top, meet at a 90 degree angle, weakening the anchor and making minor access loading on the carabiners very likely.
Definitely not what the AMGA recommended, the law of unintended consequences.

Saturday, June 27, 2020

A newly popular bad idea.

More people are using these trees, that doesn't make them any bigger.

The red rope if four feet up the tree, the blue webbing is attached to a rope with a single carabiner.

Sort of a tensionless anchor, tied off 15 feet from the tree.

Friday, June 26, 2020

Let's build a fire on this mulch

I guess they figured the Park Police were busy beating people. Leaving a box full goodies where you can't watch them isn't a good idea.

Wednesday, June 24, 2020

The law of unintended consequences.

The AMGA said you didn't need a stopper knot on a figure 8 if you left 6" of tail.  Since their announcement there has been an epidemic of bowlines without stopper knots. A bowline really needs a stopper. Is that AMGA 6"?

High anchor on a dead tree with a carabiner instead of a knot. Tiny tree with the same thing.

Nobody got hurt.

I told them to sling the boulders, didn't know they were that short. That's the climbing rope at the right.

Tuesday, June 16, 2020

The skinny tree is calling.

This is an attempt at the "high re-direct" dubious on its own, but the clove hitch to the carabiners entirely puts the force four feet up the tree, tremendously increasing leverage on the tree.

Is thinner dumber?