Sunday, June 17, 2018

They tied one knot right.

That's a figure 8 on the left, and looks like not quite a double fisherman's on the right. They have created a large loop of rope, so it isn't two strands, it is one anchor. This is the tree above the X. It lost some roots when fungus attacked it a few years ago, so I don't use it by itself as an anchor

They didn't get it over the edge despite all the extra rope, and they used one locking carabiner to attach the climbing rope.

Thursday, June 14, 2018

I didn't understand what language they were speaking. They were from New Zealand.

Clove hitch, unnecessary slings and carabiners, some with the gate facing the rock.

"Missed it by THAT much." Not using the bogus BFK would fix this.

Another mess, love the anchors/projectiles.

When using single strand webbing, run it under a sharp edge, putting it under tension for better cutting.

Carabiners neither reversed nor opposed.

Cargo strap as climbing anchor, not the usual 3 inch, just 1 inch.

Sunday, June 10, 2018

Don't pull on the refrigerator.

Slinging this loose block with 9MM isn't a great idea. With all the rain some stable blocks have loosened up.

Saturday, June 9, 2018

5MM cord is a bad idea.

In addition to being way too high on the tree, the 4 8MM anchors (2 climbs) were constantly stretching and vibrating with every movement of the climbing rope. Sure, you read on the Internet that 5MM is strong enough, it is about cutting. Stop looking at crap on YouTube.

How high did the water get? See the line of dirt 12 feet up at the second flake on
Triple A?

Sunday, May 27, 2018

You're not going to die, so why is it a bad idea?

This was rigged by an instructor, this school no longer requires certification.  Is a clove hitch safe? Often, but it isn't bombproof when it is out of sight. Any added links in the belay chain introduce risk. There is plenty of beefy static to tie to this tree, the 8MM cordalette and single carabiner are not needed, so they are an unnecessary risk. "But it is one of two anchors." All anchors should be bombproof, full stop, no exceptions, ever.

Friday, May 25, 2018

It's not cool to run your anchor rope across a trail.

Having one anchor five times longer than the other means there is no equalization , this anchor really isn't in the game at all.

Thursday, May 24, 2018

Too late to be easily fixed.

The tie that was undercut disappeared in the flood. The Excess Fund has a work day scheduled June 2. What will they do?

Having never been to Carderock, the NPS employee went a bit overboard, seeming to close the cliff.