Sunday, April 22, 2018

Cams work best when touching the rock.

"If I thrash my tail in the dry leaves will you think I'm a rattlesnake?"

Just about zero contact on the right cam.

Didn't just tie a knot, and left his antique belay device.

The right lobe on the gold cam is pretty much in the air.

Close-up.

Two anchors on a tiny tree.

Same tree, much higher anchor.

Saturday, April 21, 2018

Never miss a dead tree.

God help us, they are making more of them.

Anchor 20 feet up the tree, maximizing leverage on the poor plant.

Why use the rope when you can add a cordalette and carabiner?

Gym climbers don't own packs so they bring their Ikea bags. A pricey pair of climbing shoes are inside so anyone can grab them. Not a soul around up here.

Very dead tree.

"OK I know these knots work, but I'll add a $20 carabiner someone can steal."  Are things really stolen from anchors? Yes.

Friday, April 20, 2018

The gyms were closed for a staff religious holiday, 4/20.

Carabiners instead of a knot.

Tiny tree, single bowline and no stopper knot, sorry about the finger.
The main anchor is a 5mm cordalette.

Saturday, April 14, 2018

How many are too many?

One of two commercial groups

Flying anchors!

When capitalism takes over Carderock, go to the secret crag.

Friday, April 13, 2018

Yard Sale Part Deux

Everything they own.

A couple of quickdraws and a cordalette

Wait there's more. I guess they didn't want to do the whole climb.

Lots of webbing and carabiners.

How sharp is this rock?

Thursday, April 12, 2018

When you make too many choices.

5 MM cordalette and carabiners added when there was plenty of static rope. The active rope is the clove hitch to a single carabiner. The other strand with the carabiner and figure 8 knot may be a backup. Lots of choices when simple would have done the job.

Sunday, April 8, 2018

Shoe laces and mystery knots.

Multiple pieces of 7MM cord, no protection from sharp edges.

Figure 8 knot that will be a bitch to untie.

Any guesses?