Sunday, November 19, 2017

Why not use the ENORMOUS tree?

We've gone from two anchors to three now.

They did not use the tree on the right, the rope goes to the two tiny trees at the left.

Saturday, November 18, 2017

Every choice is awful.

You could probably pull this rock out by hand.

Tiny trees, single wire gate carabiner, gate down, this anchor isn't functional, it is just clipped around the rope.

Single anchor over a sharp edge, and yes, that is a loose block.

Saturday, November 11, 2017

It was all they had.

Yes, that's 8MM green rope for one climb, old, single strand webbing, with a carabiner instead of a knot.

Thursday, November 2, 2017

Not actually an anchor.

1. This is a dead tree. 2.This is not a tensionless anchor, not enough wraps. 3. The anchor isn't at the base of the tree 4. The pack is just waiting to be stolen. 5. The climber was on the rope, this anchor isn't working.

Monday, October 30, 2017

More is less.

The block on the left would have been fine, instead they went for a less positive system including the small loose rock at right.

I one no problem with a single anchor around the enormous tree. The climbing rope running over rock edges, not so much.

Friday, October 27, 2017

What's wrong with this picture?

Local "instructors" are teaching this. It introduces two unnecessary links in the belay chain. This guy understands that the clove isn't stable, his solution is to tie an overhand cross loading the carabiner and wrapped around the locking collar so it can be loosened. Each choice may seem innocuous, but they add up, more importantly, it shows sloppy thinking, inattention to the details that keep us safe.

Sunday, October 22, 2017

Brand new boat rope.

Why is 8MM a bad idea? Look at the sharp edges. See the REALLY sharp white nubbins in the center? I think the dark spot near the top is a fly, not rope damage.

Don't tie off something that is small enough to move.

I'm sure these slings are designed to hold a ton, or did they already hold a ton?

Two slings on the same rock is not redundant.

A detailed photo of the 8MM on a tiny corner of the rock.

Brand new, but what is it? Haven't seen an eye splice in climbing gear.