Tuesday, October 16, 2018

Is Tuesday gumby day now?

Of all the anchors, he went with this skinny tree, but..

he had this big loose block too.

A REALLY dead tree is not a good anchor.

Two anchors on one tree is not redundant. I guess he thought being able to see all the roots was a good thing.

Why use the enormous tree when you can use the loose rock.

He had lots of rope to sling the whole block but went with a tiny corner.

Sunday, October 7, 2018

Can you use webbing for an anchor? Yes, but...

You could come up a little short and you're going to let the carabiners grind and side load because it's a bitch to retie all those runners.

This is canyoneering rope, which is not really static. The bowline with no stopper knot goes to a bent gate carabiner (easier opening). Bonus points for the stopper doing nothing.

A clove hitch is OK for a belay when it is right in front of your face, not 40 feet away and out of sight.

When you use 9/16" webbing and 8 MM cord, I guess you want the anchor high to stay off the rock.

You can't side load the carabiners unless you have two anchors.

Nobody used the enormous tree, but made a spider's web from its roots.

Think about a way to go under somebody's ropes.

Saturday, October 6, 2018

Need gear? Find these guys.

Gear isn't good for anchors because the rock breaks. The carabiner gates are facing into the rock so they can be forced open.

These anchors use single carabiners in a mission critical role. They left a juicy pile of gear , lots of sport draws, 2 packs, not a soul in sight. It all looks brand new, except the bananas, those are real ripe.

Monday, October 1, 2018

Unclear on the concept.

The tiny tree in the center was tightened with a clove hitch, so it is actually taking the full weight of both climbs.

Sunday, September 30, 2018

How to kill your kid.

They had plenty of rope, but just had to use the cordalette.

The anchor is way up the tree. Every time it was weighted the rope would jerk up in the air, just in time to trip someone.

If you're going to sell people 2 cordalettes, talk about using a knot, not adding a point of failure, much less the single carabiner.

Protecting the anchor from-- air.

7MM nylon cordalette, with 9/16" dyneema runner girth hitched, and yes, that is the climbing rope running through the runner, no carabiner. Dyneema melts at a lower temperature than nylon. A guy died at Great Falls this way.

Saturday, September 29, 2018

"It's just a backup."

When the anchor is tight, that's a sign that it is holding the weight

No matter how little space, they need to hang their hammock.

They had lots of rope, but they ended up running the weighted climbing rope over rock edges.