Sunday, August 28, 2016

Two anchors make everything OK?

Yes, this is a real anchor.

It isn't actually working, note the slack at right.

The real anchor is this small tree.

The Gym That Shall Not Be Named sells cordalettes for anchors.

Single strand webbing, way up the tiny tree. This second anchor is a joke. The owner has over 20 years of climbing experience.

Saturday, August 27, 2016

Why is side loading bad?

Laundry line from a tiny tree. The good news, the webbing is used as a loop, not single strand.

90 degree angle, beginning t lose strength.

Totally side loading the carabiners, the weakest configuration. Loading and unloading the anchor can rotate those collars unlocked.

Thursday, August 25, 2016

Too hot, but not too smart.

Weird sling around the moving block, includes carabiner.

Its a dead tree, but...

the jammed knot makes it all better, right?

This bad idea is being taught by a local gym. It adds two points of failure, and uses the unstable clove hitch.

Saturday, August 13, 2016

Good news, bad news.

The good news, this anchor was never even loaded, the knot didn't tighten. The bad news,  run way up that little tree, it would have levered the tree severely. 

The climbing rope was rigged for rope soloing. It is close to a tensionless anchor, so I guess the half hitches don't matter much. The guy climbing in work boots was using a single Jumar-type ascender, which would be lucky to not sever the rope if he fell. Must be the heat.

Wednesday, August 10, 2016

Assorted bad ideas.

Slinging a tiny portion of a small rock is not a great idea. Why use 2 brand new quickdraws? Because you bought them.

He took both ends of the 9MM rope, wrapped them around the tree, then tied each end.

Tiny tree, 9mm anchor will stretch a bunch. Stretch means movement, which can cut the rope.

More 9MM rope clipped with a single carabiner to real Bluewater II static rope.

Same anchor, 9/16" webbing around a thread in the rock, clipped with a single carabiner to the system.

Sunday, August 7, 2016

Two out of three,not good.

If your sling both of these boulders, that's OK. A nut between them isn't, they have been known to move.

There are better anchors than these skinny trees.

Tuesday, August 2, 2016

"Close enough" mentality.

Put it at the bottom of the tree, give the tree a break.

Why would you sling just the loose blocks, the blocks right below are partially buried and have never moved. Why would you use a carabiner (at right), adding a point of failure.