Thursday, May 18, 2017

The other anchor was fine.

Tiny tree, thin webbing, single carabiner, 8mm rope, at least the other anchor is a fat static line.

No, the blue webbing doesn't make the anchor better, it introduces the possibility of side loading and increases the angle of the anchors, weakening them.  Two big trees with static rope anchors were overkill to begin with.

Monday, May 15, 2017

Start with the dead tree?

The tree at left is dead.

If I tie off above the hollow, it's stronger, right?  No, it is not.

Tuesday, May 9, 2017

So, the good anchor didn't get the knot right.

Why use the big tree when you can sling the slippery rock? Using webbing and carabiners adds points of failure. The tree would increase the angle on the anchor, but there are better rocks near the other anchor.

Sunday, May 7, 2017

Leave no trace?

Made in Mexico? They left China for Mexico?

The small tree is the anchor holding 100% of the weight. The other anchor was a large tree, but that doesn't matter since it isn't part of the system.

This is what it looks like when the gauge at Little Falls reads 8 ft.

Wednesday, April 19, 2017

No, really, not like this.

It is a big block, but it is attached to NOTHING. The higher you sling it, the greater the leverage on it.

Tuesday, April 18, 2017

When you have a hammer, everything looks like a nail.

Lots of new carabiners and runners. Love the micro cam and tiny wired stopper.

Engineers call them points of failure for a reason.

When you have all that extra rope, you don't need the carabiner and the skinny blue cord. Simple is best.

Wednesday, April 12, 2017

Should the anchor out weigh the climber?

The rock might weigh 50 lbs., fortunately the kids didn't weigh much more. His other choice was the skinny tree, not the big tree in the background, or the large one in the right foreground.

Tuesday, April 11, 2017

No stopper, no tail.

This was the only anchor, I have no problem with that, but a real knot would be nice.

He talked about having 2 anchors, less than 90 degrees, equalized, that's not what happened. This rope may have pulled up the tree when the system was weighted. This anchor is doing nothing.

This skinny tree isn't 50% of the anchor, it is 100%.

Monday, April 10, 2017

Missed it by THAT much.

One inch runners protecting the anchor rope from air.

Fifty feet of extra rope but not enough to get over the edge.

Sunday, April 9, 2017

Equalization is harder than they told you.

The blue line at the right is totally loaded. The second anchor on the tree at left is  slack.  So this anchor is one line of what might be 9 MM at most.

The 1 inch webbing as a protector works best when it is where the rope crosses the rock, not out in the air.

The perched block isn't a great anchor.

Sunday, April 2, 2017

The downside of having two anchors.

Two crap anchors do not equal one good one. 9mm on a tiny tree.

It looks like bungie cord, but...

Very dead tree.

We piled up brush as "idiot cribbing", they decided to have a picnic in the middle of the area we were trying to block off.

Saturday, April 1, 2017

If you tie a knot, tighten it.

Sure it is a double fisherman's, least likely to work loose, but sloppy is not a good sign.

Wednesday, March 29, 2017

When in doubt, use everything.

Two anchor points, but a single anchor. Single carabiners and even a descending ring, on the left, connect runners. They ran short and connected the climbing rope with a single carabiner.

Saturday, March 25, 2017

Carderock accident.

      An adult borrowed someone's climbing rig, setting up his kid to belay with an ATC. The kid didn't understand what that meant. The rope's owner offered to belay, or back the kid up, but the adult declined. When he fell he went straight to the ground. He had open fractures of the Tibia and Fibula, a severely dislocated ankle, and an injury to one arm. On the plus side, for the rest of his life, he will probably know when it is going to rain.

Spring follies.

If you use single strand webbing, I guess 2 is a good idea. Just understand they aren't 2 independent anchors if they go to the same tree.

This anchor runs across a busy trail to a tiny tree.

This mess includes a loose block, can in brittle rock, single strand webbing, the list goes on.

An anchor 10 feet up the tree really inn't good for the tree.

More hardware and single strand webbing.

The webbing is around a DEAD tree. The rescue plate allows two bad anchors instead of one.

When should you use prusik knots in an anchor? NEVER. 
Why use the enormous tree when you can use the smaller one? Note the 2 carabiners open in the same direction.

Equalized? Not when one rope is completely slack.

Single strand webbing tied in a bowline that is grinding on the rock every time it is weighted.

Friday, March 24, 2017

How many anchors

Three points, but one anchor.

Use the enormous tree? Nah, use the skinny ones.

Don't use all the rope, hang it short and let the climbing rope rub on a sharp edge.

Thursday, March 9, 2017

Do they know that carabiner was recalled?

Single strand webbing, easy to cut. Does that carabiner have the loose gate rivets that were recalled?

Tuesday, February 28, 2017

Saturday, February 25, 2017

Bad habits

Close up of (maybe) 9MM cord on a small tree, bowline with no stopper knot. The other anchor was a big tree with 11MM caving rope, bowline, and again no stopper knot.

Wednesday, February 22, 2017

The basics matter.

The double fisherman's is a better choice for tying a runner in 9/16" supertape than the water knot. Whichever knot, setting the knot is a 4 step process:
1. Have tails of at least 2 inches.
2. Pull on the tails with pliers.
3. Set the knot under body weight.
4. Check the tails again

http://www.wyofile.com/mountain-guide-death-leads-exum-fine/

Mountain guide death leads to Exum fine

1SHARES
A Jackson Hole climbing guide service paid a $7,350 fine for safety violations after state officials investigated the 2016 death of a guide who fell from the Grand Teton.
Exum Mountain Guides paid the fine and resolved two citations after an investigation by Wyoming’s Occupational Safety and Health Administration. The probe was prompted by the death of guide Gary Falk. The guide service agreed to review annually the personal safety gear that climbing guides use and document that inspection, according to recently released OSHA documents. Exum also agreed to document training about how to avoid contact with biological hazards, such as blood.
Falk, 42, died in a fall from the 13,775-foot Grand Teton on July 23, when he was descending the peak with young clients from a group called City Kids. Grand Teton National Park climbing rangers believe a knot Falk tied to make a tether from nylon webbing slipped and sent him plummeting 2,500 feet to his death. The tether — a four-foot loop or sling — was part of his personal gear and not supplied by Exum.
The investigation underscores an emerging awareness among businesses in the recreation and outdoors industry that they are subject to rules seeking to ensure safety — even in unconventional workplaces like ski resorts and wilderness areas. In recent years Wyoming OSHA has investigated the death of an ecology field worker slain and eaten by a bear or bears, a ski patroller killed in an avalanche and another patroller who died in a fall. 
Recreation and outdoor businesses in Teton County and other resort areas present unconventional challenges when it comes to ensuring safe workplaces, John Ysebaert said. Ysebaert is the administrator of OSHA’s Office of Standards and Compliance.
“Many of the employers in Teton County come across hazards that are more unpredictable,” than those found in more traditional work settings, Ysebaert said.  With ski fatalities, bear maulings and climbing falls, “Teton County is unique in many of those circumstances.”
Federal rules, which Wyoming enforces, require employers to protect their employees according to certain standards. Rules can be specific regarding scaffoldings, hard hats and safety harnesses. But OSHA, Ysebaert said, “doesn’t have standards for preventing bear attacks.”

Monday, February 20, 2017

The small tree, really?


Should a prusik be part of an anchor?

Nylon girth hitched to spectra, single carabiner, 8MM cord.

Sunday, February 19, 2017

First 70 degree day.

Half inch webbing, carabiner gate down, so it can open, and a climbing rope instead of static. They hit the ground a lot when they fell at the start.

Saturday, February 18, 2017

Is it spring yet?

A "creative" mess.

Quickdraws and a spectra runner girth hitched to 8MM nylon.

Sunday, February 12, 2017

Warm and fuzzy isn't good for an anchor.

Fuzzy webbing, made for what?

Something inside 2" webbing, the a single quick link. Did it come from the hardware store? Finally, 9 MM, possibly static.

Fancy velcro sleve, hope it cost a bundle. Webbing is about $.25 a foot.