Monday, June 26, 2017

Don't leave your stuff at the top of the cliff.

This was the least scary thing they did all day. They put the runners high because that is the climbing rope. The carabiners going to the black webbing are non-locking wire gates.

Hundreds of dollars in gear and a phone, totally out of the owners' sight. Summer is when kids are prone to grabbing stuff.

Saturday, June 24, 2017

You know who you are.

People are paying to learn a bad practice. Look at the pile of unused static rope. In the background, the bad news: 1 8MM cord 2. unnecessary links in the chain 3. unstable clove hitch

They know the clove is unstable, note the grapevine backup.

Wednesday, June 21, 2017

Wrong materials, wrong place.

That rock is a poor choice of anchor, but if you have to use skinny webbing, put it around that rock, it is less likely to roll off, and avoids abrasion at the cliff edge.

Sunday, June 18, 2017

How many things wrong?

1. Hollow tree 2. Thin runner 3. Single carabiner, remember most locking carabiners have been recalled in the last year 4. Another thin runner 5. Another single carabiner 6. 8MM cord running over rock edges without padding

Sure, string your hammock across the trail.

Monday, June 12, 2017

How small is too small?

The anchor is 6 feet up the tree, increasing the leverage on the tree. This was probably done to avoid cutting the anchor on the rock. The runner around the tree appears to be 7MM, the longer cord is 8MM.

Saturday, June 10, 2017

They used it all but came up short.

The too small tree in the background has a spectra alpine runner girth hitched to a nylon sling, not considered a good practice.

Didn't quite make it over the edge.

Thursday, June 1, 2017

New mysteries.


That's a bowline and a figure 8 connected by a carabiner.
When should you retire webbing? How about when it looks like your dog chewed it.

More of same. Do you think it was once a darker orange, not white like the edges?

Thursday, May 18, 2017

The other anchor was fine.

Tiny tree, thin webbing, single carabiner, 8mm rope, at least the other anchor is a fat static line.

No, the blue webbing doesn't make the anchor better, it introduces the possibility of side loading and increases the angle of the anchors, weakening them.  Two big trees with static rope anchors were overkill to begin with.

Monday, May 15, 2017

Start with the dead tree?

The tree at left is dead.

If I tie off above the hollow, it's stronger, right?  No, it is not.

Tuesday, May 9, 2017

So, the good anchor didn't get the knot right.

Why use the big tree when you can sling the slippery rock? Using webbing and carabiners adds points of failure. The tree would increase the angle on the anchor, but there are better rocks near the other anchor.

Sunday, May 7, 2017

Leave no trace?

Made in Mexico? They left China for Mexico?

The small tree is the anchor holding 100% of the weight. The other anchor was a large tree, but that doesn't matter since it isn't part of the system.

This is what it looks like when the gauge at Little Falls reads 8 ft.

Wednesday, April 19, 2017

No, really, not like this.

It is a big block, but it is attached to NOTHING. The higher you sling it, the greater the leverage on it.

Tuesday, April 18, 2017

When you have a hammer, everything looks like a nail.

Lots of new carabiners and runners. Love the micro cam and tiny wired stopper.

Engineers call them points of failure for a reason.

When you have all that extra rope, you don't need the carabiner and the skinny blue cord. Simple is best.

Wednesday, April 12, 2017

Should the anchor out weigh the climber?

The rock might weigh 50 lbs., fortunately the kids didn't weigh much more. His other choice was the skinny tree, not the big tree in the background, or the large one in the right foreground.

Tuesday, April 11, 2017

No stopper, no tail.

This was the only anchor, I have no problem with that, but a real knot would be nice.

He talked about having 2 anchors, less than 90 degrees, equalized, that's not what happened. This rope may have pulled up the tree when the system was weighted. This anchor is doing nothing.

This skinny tree isn't 50% of the anchor, it is 100%.

Monday, April 10, 2017

Missed it by THAT much.

One inch runners protecting the anchor rope from air.

Fifty feet of extra rope but not enough to get over the edge.

Sunday, April 9, 2017

Equalization is harder than they told you.

The blue line at the right is totally loaded. The second anchor on the tree at left is  slack.  So this anchor is one line of what might be 9 MM at most.

The 1 inch webbing as a protector works best when it is where the rope crosses the rock, not out in the air.

The perched block isn't a great anchor.

Sunday, April 2, 2017

The downside of having two anchors.

Two crap anchors do not equal one good one. 9mm on a tiny tree.

It looks like bungie cord, but...

Very dead tree.

We piled up brush as "idiot cribbing", they decided to have a picnic in the middle of the area we were trying to block off.

Saturday, April 1, 2017

If you tie a knot, tighten it.

Sure it is a double fisherman's, least likely to work loose, but sloppy is not a good sign.

Wednesday, March 29, 2017

When in doubt, use everything.

Two anchor points, but a single anchor. Single carabiners and even a descending ring, on the left, connect runners. They ran short and connected the climbing rope with a single carabiner.

Saturday, March 25, 2017

Carderock accident.

      An adult borrowed someone's climbing rig, setting up his kid to belay with an ATC. The kid didn't understand what that meant. The rope's owner offered to belay, or back the kid up, but the adult declined. When he fell he went straight to the ground. He had open fractures of the Tibia and Fibula, a severely dislocated ankle, and an injury to one arm. On the plus side, for the rest of his life, he will probably know when it is going to rain.

Spring follies.

If you use single strand webbing, I guess 2 is a good idea. Just understand they aren't 2 independent anchors if they go to the same tree.

This anchor runs across a busy trail to a tiny tree.

This mess includes a loose block, can in brittle rock, single strand webbing, the list goes on.

An anchor 10 feet up the tree really inn't good for the tree.

More hardware and single strand webbing.

The webbing is around a DEAD tree. The rescue plate allows two bad anchors instead of one.

When should you use prusik knots in an anchor? NEVER. 
Why use the enormous tree when you can use the smaller one? Note the 2 carabiners open in the same direction.

Equalized? Not when one rope is completely slack.

Single strand webbing tied in a bowline that is grinding on the rock every time it is weighted.