Sunday, October 15, 2017

Can't anybody tie a knot without a carabiner?



Stopper between the loose rock and tree, anchor of really old climbing rope.

Saturday, October 14, 2017

A new case of your worst nightmare

A totally preventable death at a top rope area.

A Rock Climber's Death Highlights Dangers of an Increasingly Popular Sport 



Bad news, good news.

Single strand webbing, carabiner instead of a knot, 3 feet up the tree.

The ever popular boat rope.

Lots of extra rope to use instead of the cordalette, carabiners and runner.

Wire gates because that's what you bought for sport climbing.

The good news, they didn't use this fuzzy crap.

Friday, October 6, 2017

Trail booby traps.

Fortunately, the trail wasn't crowded.

This looks like a retraced figure eight using 5MM spectra or kevlar. Using this material with nylon is high risk.

The climbing rope is running right over a sharp nubbin. Each anchor is clipped into only one carabiner.

Sunday, October 1, 2017

The ultimate mystery knot?

Two of everything, but at least three knots

Weaving runners together doesn't make then equalized or redundant.

Carabiners instead of real knots.

One old piece of climbing rope. There are knots at both ends, so it isn't even a loop.

Saturday, September 30, 2017

Some trees aren't so good.

I have pictures of people anchored to this tree.

The fresh breaks show how little was attached.

Gotta use that tiny tree.

Girth hitch your wired nuts together.

Wednesday, September 27, 2017

Ugliest bowline ever

No matter how much you struggle with your knots, you probably wouldn't leave one like this.

Tiny trees, carabiners in the system, and mystery knots.

Two large rocks were levered out of the walk down, one left and one right of the tree.

Monday, September 25, 2017

Just lazy

Two wraps doesn't make this a tensionless anchor. A bowline would eliminate the carabiner.

Tiny tree, too high up the trunk, but it is a tensionless anchor, as you can tell by the loose knot.

Sunday, September 17, 2017

Friday, September 15, 2017

All new, all bad.

Tiny tree and two bad knots, on the right is a sloppy tensionless anchor.

On the left, a single bowline with too short tail and no stopper knot.

Another sloppy bowline.

How about tightening your knots, is that a concept?

We use the cordalette and carabiners because we paid for them, right? Note the clove hitch, backed up by an overhand knot, both rubbing against the rock.

Monday, September 11, 2017

When does the double bowline matter? When you use 8mm as an anchor.

Expensive prep school anchor, Dead Preppies might make a good name for a band. The carabiner is an unnecessary link in the chain and the tree is too small.

Everybody should have 2 anchors? Not if one is a potential projectile.

Single bowline in 8mm, this is where not using the double bowline can make a difference.

Sunday, September 10, 2017

That tiny wire will help so much.

The tiny wire to the root is such a joke.This tree isn't that good, as you can see, what you can't see is even less soil around the other side. Note the redundant carabiner on the red rope.

So many things. Non-locking carabiners, dog bones, and a daisy chain, along with the 8mm cordalette. So they used everything they owned.

There were lots of trees, they used the smallest.

New graffiti.

Put your 8 mil high around the loose block.

Don't know what it was about, but it was water soluble.

Couldn't find a smaller rock?

Monday, September 4, 2017

Gumby day.

A runner, dog-bone, and single carabiner, and yes, that is the climbing rope.

Clove hitch on a single non locking carabiner.

Another single carabiner and climbing rope dragging over edges.

Wednesday, August 30, 2017

Sunday, August 27, 2017

Run your rope across the trail? Sure, why not.

Note the red one in the background. Each anchor is a runner around a tree with a carabiner connecting to 9mm. Nine mil will stretch a lot and saw on rock edges. The runners and carabiners introduce unnecessary points of failure. Each anchor had enough unused rope to tie around the tree.

A wire gate carabiner, gate facing down toward the rock that can force it open. This is what happens when your friend, who does all the rigging, doesn't make it today.

Monday, August 14, 2017

Did a local retailer sell this 8 mil to teenagers?

At first, it looked like this was the only anchor.

The second anchor is more than 90 degrees away.