Monday, August 14, 2017

Did a local retailer sell this 8 mil to teenagers?

At first, it looked like this was the only anchor.

The second anchor is more than 90 degrees away.

Sunday, August 13, 2017

Slings and biners of outrageous anchors.

The tree in the air, slung about 6 feet up, oh and by the way, 2 ropes on the same tree doesn't mean 2 anchors. Note the guy being taught to hang over the edge to rig a top rope. Good to know, but people are doing it way too often.

They knew this rock wasn't big enough, so they added the tony tree.

To prevent recurrence, one guy moved the rock.

The laundry line of everything they had.

Tuesday, August 8, 2017

They're baak...

Same anchors, same mistakes, same bad attitude, never spoke to anyone.

Two people rigged 3 climbs, good thing it was quiet. Like a lot of climbers, it looks like they don't have any friends. This anchor is 9MM non-static cord.

This skinny tree is an anchor for 2 climbs.

Monday, August 7, 2017

Not just Carderock.

  From Fabi  Gutierrez "Hey John, this is at Acadia National Park. Two topropes to the left and it looks like three anchors total, with the center one being shared. Figure 8 on the top anchor, center one is clove hitched, and the bottom achor out of the pic is a slung boulder, but clove hitch on that biner. No locking biners anywhere (that I could see.)."

Sunday, August 6, 2017

They were pissed when we told them not to lead at Carderock.

They got huffy, and this is their anchor. There are two points, going to a single webbing runner.

It isn't quite side loaded, any bets on what happens when it is loaded?

Wednesday, August 2, 2017

More vandalism

Unsupervised summer camp kids start defacing the rocks. it happened last year, NPS made a camp remove the writing and threatened to pull their permit. This is the first time this year. There were 7 large vans in the parking lot Tuesday, I could identify 2 groups, but not the others. NPS is investigating, having the dumb kid write his name does make it easier.

Surprisingly, this mess of a knot is working. One of the carabiners is a locker, the other has its gate opening the same way, not reversed, opposed, or best of all reversed and opposed.

It's a big tree but give it a break, rigging high increases the force pulling it out. Running a moving rope over the cliff edge doesn't help either.

Tuesday, August 1, 2017

Can't blame the heat, it didn't even hit 90.

Sticking the anchor way up in the tree and running the climbing rope over edges is never a good idea.

Looks like these came from a sport climbing quickdraw. One is a bent gate made to open easier, not what you ant for a top rope anchor. Do I use non-locking carabiners? You bet, steel ovals that don't gunk up the rope and are least prone to side loading or turning over.

You can see by the slack that the two cams are holding nothing. The only active anchor is the tiny tree.

Monday, July 31, 2017

Worst idea ever.

Sure it is a big tree ut it is pretty hollow. This guy had to tie one loop around the rope rope rather than a real knot. This is the only anchor, I would have no problem with that if it were bomber.

Yes, tensionless anchors work, not tying of the end is criminal. Fortunately he had another good anchor. If you tie one shit anchor, sooner or later you will tie two.

Sunday, July 9, 2017

Summer's best day? Less so when schools rig everything all day long.

The gym "instructor" rigged the active climbing rope going over sharp edges. The corner on the left developed a pile of red fibers from abrasion.

No, putting the rope above the hollow doesn't make it stronger. The knot at left is grinding  on edges of the boulder.

Monday, July 3, 2017

How many bad anchors make a good anchor?

The rope at bottom isn't bad, the one on the single branch above, not so much.

OK, it is the biggest trunk, but look at those roots. This is not an anchor, this is a bad idea.

Sunday, July 2, 2017

No, this is never OK.

The AMGA may tell you a knot to secure the tail isn't needed on a figure 8, nobody will tell it isn't needed on a bowline.

Monday, June 26, 2017

Don't leave your stuff at the top of the cliff.

This was the least scary thing they did all day. They put the runners high because that is the climbing rope. The carabiners going to the black webbing are non-locking wire gates.

Hundreds of dollars in gear and a phone, totally out of the owners' sight. Summer is when kids are prone to grabbing stuff.

Saturday, June 24, 2017

You know who you are.

People are paying to learn a bad practice. Look at the pile of unused static rope. In the background, the bad news: 1 8MM cord 2. unnecessary links in the chain 3. unstable clove hitch

They know the clove is unstable, note the grapevine backup.

Wednesday, June 21, 2017

Wrong materials, wrong place.

That rock is a poor choice of anchor, but if you have to use skinny webbing, put it around that rock, it is less likely to roll off, and avoids abrasion at the cliff edge.

Sunday, June 18, 2017

How many things wrong?

1. Hollow tree 2. Thin runner 3. Single carabiner, remember most locking carabiners have been recalled in the last year 4. Another thin runner 5. Another single carabiner 6. 8MM cord running over rock edges without padding

Sure, string your hammock across the trail.

Monday, June 12, 2017

How small is too small?

The anchor is 6 feet up the tree, increasing the leverage on the tree. This was probably done to avoid cutting the anchor on the rock. The runner around the tree appears to be 7MM, the longer cord is 8MM.

Saturday, June 10, 2017

They used it all but came up short.

The too small tree in the background has a spectra alpine runner girth hitched to a nylon sling, not considered a good practice.

Didn't quite make it over the edge.

Thursday, June 1, 2017

New mysteries.


That's a bowline and a figure 8 connected by a carabiner.
When should you retire webbing? How about when it looks like your dog chewed it.

More of same. Do you think it was once a darker orange, not white like the edges?

Thursday, May 18, 2017

The other anchor was fine.

Tiny tree, thin webbing, single carabiner, 8mm rope, at least the other anchor is a fat static line.

No, the blue webbing doesn't make the anchor better, it introduces the possibility of side loading and increases the angle of the anchors, weakening them.  Two big trees with static rope anchors were overkill to begin with.