Tuesday, February 28, 2017

Beware the detached block.

It has moved a little in 40 years. Today may not be the day, but...

Saturday, February 25, 2017

Bad habits

Close up of (maybe) 9MM cord on a small tree, bowline with no stopper knot. The other anchor was a big tree with 11MM caving rope, bowline, and again no stopper knot.

Wednesday, February 22, 2017

The basics matter.

The double fisherman's is a better choice for tying a runner in 9/16" supertape than the water knot. Whichever knot, setting the knot is a 4 step process:
1. Have tails of at least 2 inches.
2. Pull on the tails with pliers.
3. Set the knot under body weight.
4. Check the tails again


Mountain guide death leads to Exum fine

A Jackson Hole climbing guide service paid a $7,350 fine for safety violations after state officials investigated the 2016 death of a guide who fell from the Grand Teton.
Exum Mountain Guides paid the fine and resolved two citations after an investigation by Wyoming’s Occupational Safety and Health Administration. The probe was prompted by the death of guide Gary Falk. The guide service agreed to review annually the personal safety gear that climbing guides use and document that inspection, according to recently released OSHA documents. Exum also agreed to document training about how to avoid contact with biological hazards, such as blood.
Falk, 42, died in a fall from the 13,775-foot Grand Teton on July 23, when he was descending the peak with young clients from a group called City Kids. Grand Teton National Park climbing rangers believe a knot Falk tied to make a tether from nylon webbing slipped and sent him plummeting 2,500 feet to his death. The tether — a four-foot loop or sling — was part of his personal gear and not supplied by Exum.
The investigation underscores an emerging awareness among businesses in the recreation and outdoors industry that they are subject to rules seeking to ensure safety — even in unconventional workplaces like ski resorts and wilderness areas. In recent years Wyoming OSHA has investigated the death of an ecology field worker slain and eaten by a bear or bears, a ski patroller killed in an avalanche and another patroller who died in a fall. 
Recreation and outdoor businesses in Teton County and other resort areas present unconventional challenges when it comes to ensuring safe workplaces, John Ysebaert said. Ysebaert is the administrator of OSHA’s Office of Standards and Compliance.
“Many of the employers in Teton County come across hazards that are more unpredictable,” than those found in more traditional work settings, Ysebaert said.  With ski fatalities, bear maulings and climbing falls, “Teton County is unique in many of those circumstances.”
Federal rules, which Wyoming enforces, require employers to protect their employees according to certain standards. Rules can be specific regarding scaffoldings, hard hats and safety harnesses. But OSHA, Ysebaert said, “doesn’t have standards for preventing bear attacks.”

Monday, February 20, 2017

The small tree, really?

Should a prusik be part of an anchor?

Nylon girth hitched to spectra, single carabiner, 8MM cord.

Sunday, February 19, 2017

First 70 degree day.

Half inch webbing, carabiner gate down, so it can open, and a climbing rope instead of static. They hit the ground a lot when they fell at the start.

Saturday, February 18, 2017

Is it spring yet?

A "creative" mess.

Quickdraws and a spectra runner girth hitched to 8MM nylon.

Sunday, February 12, 2017

Warm and fuzzy isn't good for an anchor.

Fuzzy webbing, made for what?

Something inside 2" webbing, the a single quick link. Did it come from the hardware store? Finally, 9 MM, possibly static.

Fancy velcro sleve, hope it cost a bundle. Webbing is about $.25 a foot.

Monday, February 6, 2017