Tuesday, December 29, 2020

The only good news...


 the gate hinge is grinding on the rock, not the opening.

Sunday, December 27, 2020

If the tree is tiny, put three anchors on it.


 If you're using a dead tree (foreground), back it up with a tiny tree that is an anchor for three climbs.

Friday, December 25, 2020

This is obscene.

 I know kids are going crazy but taking them to Carderock, a National Park, to paint rocks is a crime.

Sunday, December 13, 2020

Yard Sale.

Use everything you own.
If that tree goes, I don't think the rock will stay still.
 

Sunday, December 6, 2020

When life gives you lemons you make...

This guy wrapped his other anchor twice, leaving him pretty short here.
Is it lemonade or urine? Yes, that's the climbing rope dragging over at least 10 feet of rock, and of course, the ever popular dead tree.
 

Thursday, December 3, 2020

Not the answer.

1. Dead tree, 2. unstable clove hitch, 3. single carabiner, 4. single runner. Note the extra rope, a bowline would eliminate the weaknesses.
The second anchor has an air gap, and the angle of the anchors is over 90 degrees.
The other anchor is a big tree, getting a lot of attention lately. This tiny tree is not the answer. In front of the big tree is a large block to sling.
 

Wednesday, December 2, 2020

Minimalism can be overdone.

The tree in the foreground paired with the tiny tree in the background. The small tree was shaking in the wind and every time someone fell,
 Single anchor, single carabiner, single runner, that's it.

Sunday, November 29, 2020

More mysteries.

A shaky clove hitch in the worst possible place, rubbing the carabiner on a rock edge.

An unnecessary sign and carabiner, but the real problem is the dead tree it is attached to. For future reference, the other trunks are alive.

 The flying tree and the loose block, plus, bonus, a couple of blurry fingers.

Wednesday, November 25, 2020

An anchor headed for Bethesda.

The extra long anchor means more stretch, so you aren't really on belay until you get about 6 feet up.

Tuesday, November 24, 2020

Carderock graffiti.

Looks like this was the tool.


 

For a top rope anchor, simple carabiners are best.


The 90 degree angle on the anchor weakens it, and leads to side loading. This anchor made a scraping noise as the climbing rope was pulled through. The fancy forged carabiner creates more friction than a simpler heavier carabiner made from round or oval bar stock. Steel would be even better. Camp makes a cheap steel locker, REI is carrying them again, Backcountry too.

Saturday, November 21, 2020

Not smart, but creative.

Plenty of rope, but added runner and carabiners. Note the side loaded carabiner.

They are Swiss, but I don't think that explains this anchor.

Yard sale attached to two loose blocks. For their next anchor, these guys tried to tie a bowline following a YouTube video. When that didn't work, they called somebody. As the sun set, they were yelling into their phone, "What do you mean working end?

"

A new record for number of pads on Buckets of Blood.

If the tree falls over, is that root going to save the day.
 

Monday, November 16, 2020

Missed it by THAT much (with apologies to Maxwell Smart.)

He's about to drop the other side of the rope, but he came up short. The climbing rope is going to drag over those edges.
 

Sunday, November 15, 2020

Two carabiners to do what?

Dunno, piles or rope were available. This was tied around a tree root. The trees take enough of a beating at Carderock, let's give the roots a break.
 

Sunday, November 8, 2020

Find the smallest rock?

The rock is partially buried but probably weighs only 40 pounds. The nut behind it is acting to lever it out of the ground.


Another small rock.
 

Saturday, November 7, 2020

A new bad idea.

9MM on a dread tree. This is a class getting bad instruction.

A new, stunningly stupid and pointless anchor. Two unnecessary unstable knots and a carabiner as a single point of failure. The gate is facing down so it could be forced open. All this to shorten an anchor which could be done safely at either end of the rope.
 

Friday, November 6, 2020

Is your kid tied to this dead tree?

The skinny maple isn't bad, but roots are never a good idea. Give the tree a break. This one is especially bad since it belongs to a tree to the right that was dead and cut down a YEAR AGO. Single strand webbing is a bad idea, it can cut.

Speaking of roots, they are great when they are in dirt, they hold the tree and nourish it. These roots are in AIR, not so good.
The tree is really dead, notice all the fungus on the trunk. The log in front was a tree standing in the same condition last year, it fell when a family was tied to it. There are few other people around, all that gear could disappear in a heartbeat. One kid was yelling at another "Life isn't fair." Only in Washington.
 

Wednesday, November 4, 2020

Does the tag mean the dead tree anchor is certified?

Five, count 'em, five knots.
The tie off knot could have been a backwards double fisherman, except that both sides are tied wrong.
 

Saturday, October 31, 2020

Unclear on the concept.

Single point anchor on the dead tree.

Simplicity is the first rule of anchors. With all that extra rope, the carabiners and cordalette are unnecessary and introduce points of failure. The clove hitch is not substitute for a reliable knot.
 

Monday, October 26, 2020

How many things wrong?

First, the tree is dead. Second, everything depends on one carabiner. Is it locked? Third, it is barely a tensionless anchor, you really want three good wraps, then tie off the end with a real knot.

 

Saturday, October 24, 2020

Learn to tie a real knot.

Dead tree, note the carabiner around it, little tree, webbing runners...



 Tons of extra rope. I guess the big tree is in case the little one rips out of the ground, you will only drop 20 feet or so.

Wednesday, October 14, 2020

Knots and other mysteries.

The primary anchor is a dead tree. The secondary is a flying rappel line clipped to a third line.


Is it a bowline?

In the words of Bob Dylan, "I just said good luck."
 

Saturday, October 10, 2020

Saturday Follies.

First DEAD TREE, second the webbing is connected to the rope by a single carabiner.


Thin 8 MM rope connected to static line with a single carabiner, gate facing down making it susceptible to being forced open. The knot is an unstable clove hitch. Note all the nice static unused.

This tree wobbles when you touch it.