Sunday, August 29, 2021

When you don't know a knot, use a carabiner.

A 9MM anchor, with the know grinding into the rock. Look at the sharp edge just above the knot. 9MM has to stretch more to hold weight, sawing in that edge.
There's a shitload (technical term) of extra rope but no clue. Note the clove hitch, totally unstable in this situation.
 

Monday, August 23, 2021

The dead tree, tiny tree combination.

They just can't resist it, and the sling is four feet up the dead tree, to increase leverage on it.
 

Sunday, August 22, 2021

Sometimes old school isn't the answer.

The only way to absolutely damage a tree, run the rope directly around the tree, abrading the bark. Haven't seen this in at least a decade.
The knot is grinding up against the rock every time the rope is weighted.
Something like a bowline.
More crap rope from the internet.

Sunday, August 15, 2021

It looks bad, but it's worse.

Tiny tree that wobbles, but wait, there's more...
It is matched with the precarious loop, all going to ONE carabiner
The red rope in the foreground is totally slack. Equalized, well, not such much.

Saturday, August 14, 2021

Nothing like professional help.

 

Put the knot high in the tree so it gets pulled out by the roots.
If you aren't REALLY sure about your backup knot, use a carabiner to anchor the tail.

Wednesday, August 11, 2021

Monday, August 9, 2021

Blindingly new.

Everything depends on that one carabiner.
Shiny new stuff, when you just bought it, you use it all.
There are lots of good anchors near this climb. Choosing points at a 90 degree angle weakens the system.
 

Sunday, August 8, 2021

Sunday follies.

 

The whole anchor depends on a single bent gate carabiner...

as does this one.

Lots of rope, but somebody online said to use a cordalette and a carabiner