Monday, August 31, 2015


This should hold down the loose block!

Sunday, August 30, 2015

When in doubt, use everything you own

Single strand webbing to a cordalette.

Carabiners instead of knots.

Climbing rope around a loose block.

This poor little tree is getting a lot of use now.

Single strand webbing to what appears to be a hunk of climbing rope.

Four cams, old climbing rope, all going to a sport draw.

Saturday, August 29, 2015

When you see the ambulance, you know it's a bad day for someone.

The usual high wire of webbing

Climbing rope as anchor.

Welcome to Carderock, conflicting stories of how serious it was, but most people didn't know there was an accident.

More webbing, the 3 inch tree is getting popular.

The carabiner on the static line isn't making contact with the rope. Everything is on the webbing.

You don't see rabbit runners much.

That's a brown tricam as an anchor.

All the extra rope he needed. The Tree on Stilts was used for multiple anchors.

Laundry line of webbing tied together.

Friday, August 28, 2015


If this is all you've got, you could make it a lot better. Use a single loop instead of the tensionless anchor to make the rope long enough to get over the rock.

Tie a real knot, think about using the webbing around the tree and save the rope for running over the rocks.

Thursday, August 27, 2015

Monkey See...

The good news, the 3 inch tree isn't holding any weight.

The bad news, it's an REI class.

Wednesday, August 26, 2015

Unclear on the concept

You give them all the gear and they still don't get it. Rope 3 feet up a 4 inch diameter tree.

The rope condom doesn't do any good if you don't put it where the rock is.

Tuesday, August 25, 2015

Adventure Links strikes again.

They had 3 rigs, static rope, steel locking carabiners, which is a good thing since these are totally side loaded. 66% isn't safe enough when it is kids and you are making a ton of money using a national park.

Monday, August 24, 2015

Maybe the heat fried his brain.

From the tree on the left, around the loose block...

That's the line from the left tree...

Lotsa connections...

this goes off right to...

this beefy hardware.

Sunday, August 23, 2015

End of summer frenzy

8MM well up the tree trunk, that's two loops around the tree.

Single strand webbing, running over lots of edges.

Single strand webbing, single carabiners, gate down against the rock.

Their guide did a high redirect, so they think it must be good.

Multiple lines, side loading the carabiner.

More 8mm rope.

Climbing rope as an anchor, looped around a tree that is barely hanging on.

Single strand webbing with lots going on.

They had plenty of rope, but added webbing and a single biner.

They added a cam, clearly not happy with their mess of an anchor.

Yes, the orange rope is at a wide angle, weakening the anchor.

There is a cam and a daisy chain girth hitched around a horn.

Monday, August 17, 2015

Trust that loose block?

Maybe if you sling a little bedrock that will make it better. A smaller block went air born at Seneca, crushing a climber's rope.

Wednesday, August 12, 2015

Yard sale.

Girth hitched webbing adds a point of failure.

Same thing, he had lots of extra rope.

Lots of extra rope, the webbing is an unnecessary risk.

Is it a tensionless anchor? Not really.

Yard sale, all the biners are gate down, the yellow webbing is a sheath for abrasion, but it is up in the air, not on the rock.

Saturday, August 8, 2015

Spawn of Satan.

I know the AMGA says this is OK, but this spawns all the high anchors. We never saw them years ago.

The ever popular dead tree.

Return of the mummy, carabiner instead of a knot.

Yeah, let the thin stuff rub against the rock.