About the blog
The climbing community always took care of its own. If you wanted to climb, people looked out for you. They wanted you safe, accidents make everybody look bad, and rescues can really get to you after a while. If you saw something that made you uneasy or you didn't understand, you said something. Gradually, people stopped questioning practices, as the sense of community eroded. Posting pictures of anchors without knowing or identifying who they belong to may encourage more of a nonjudgmental community attitude. To see other outrages: jive-assanchors.com and climbing.com/news/unbelayvable.
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Thanks for the call out John! Steve H. Jive-Ass Anchors.
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ReplyDeleteIn the old days, people would find constructive ways to help each other and show them the proper ways instead of just taking pictures and posting online with snarky comments. John, you used to be one of those people, what happened? You're turning into another Carderock Geoff. Try reaching out to these people and showing them what they are doing wrong instead of trying to embarrass them anonymously online. Lets all start taking care of the climbing community like you describe above again.
ReplyDeleteGeoff was murdered because he criticized Dave DiPaolo's belaying. Since I found him on the ground, I haven't been able to confront people about climbing.
DeleteI think everyone understands you not calling people out directly. BUT, you are basically calling people out with your photos and comments. I don't have a problem with your photos or even your comments. I just think you should at least try to educate the victims of your online assaults by listing and showing pictures (if needed) on how they can do it right. Just telling someone their wrong (like Geoff did so many times) doesn't help them do it right, someone needs to actually show them the right way. If you are going to say anything about how wrong they are, at least tell them how to do it right. You say we used to take care of each other and then go onto to say we don't help (educate) each other like in the past. Some us still do by offering constructive criticism on what they are doing wrong (politely) and then going on to show and tell them how to do things correctly. I know for a fact you used to do it, so why did you stop? If you are not going to help, don't criticize at all. If you are worried about your own danger then maybe don't post at all, everyone knows they can find you almost everyday at Carderock.. Hiding behind the internet isn't really saving you from anything.. Help people or go away.
DeleteJohn, this is Gui, we've met a few times out in Carderock and I've bought the Climber's Guide to the Great Falls books from you while climbing. I actually find your blog useful, and I check the new "dumb" stuff people are doing every now and then. However, I also think your blog could be more descriptive sometimes about what exactly is dumb about each anchor system. Not all "dumb" anchors are actually unsafe, for instance, when they are inefficient and use a lot of random pieces of gear. In these cases, I think it's important for readers to know that while their anchor maybe "dumb" in some way, they are not actually unsafe. People nowadays tend to be pretty familiar with the SERENE-A acronym for anchors (probably thanks to REI). I wonder if using that framework, including explicitly spelling it out, might be a more precise way to communicate the "dumbness" of each anchor. Simply because, and I think you would agree, some anchors on here are much more egregious than others. Anyway that's my piece of constructive criticism, I've appreciated the times when you've given me yours.
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