Monday, October 30, 2017

More is less.

The block on the left would have been fine, instead they went for a less positive system including the small loose rock at right.

I one no problem with a single anchor around the enormous tree. The climbing rope running over rock edges, not so much.

Friday, October 27, 2017

What's wrong with this picture?

Local "instructors" are teaching this. It introduces two unnecessary links in the belay chain. This guy understands that the clove isn't stable, his solution is to tie an overhand cross loading the carabiner and wrapped around the locking collar so it can be loosened. Each choice may seem innocuous, but they add up, more importantly, it shows sloppy thinking, inattention to the details that keep us safe.

Sunday, October 22, 2017

Brand new boat rope.

Why is 8MM a bad idea? Look at the sharp edges. See the REALLY sharp white nubbins in the center? I think the dark spot near the top is a fly, not rope damage.

Don't tie off something that is small enough to move.

I'm sure these slings are designed to hold a ton, or did they already hold a ton?

Two slings on the same rock is not redundant.

A detailed photo of the 8MM on a tiny corner of the rock.

Brand new, but what is it? Haven't seen an eye splice in climbing gear.

Saturday, October 21, 2017

Hammocks: curse of the crag.

Return of the boat rope.

The chock is behind the loose block.

Right across the only trail.

Sunday, October 15, 2017

Saturday, October 14, 2017

A new case of your worst nightmare

A totally preventable death at a top rope area.

A Rock Climber's Death Highlights Dangers of an Increasingly Popular Sport 



Bad news, good news.

Single strand webbing, carabiner instead of a knot, 3 feet up the tree.

The ever popular boat rope.

Lots of extra rope to use instead of the cordalette, carabiners and runner.

Wire gates because that's what you bought for sport climbing.

The good news, they didn't use this fuzzy crap.

Friday, October 6, 2017

Trail booby traps.

Fortunately, the trail wasn't crowded.

This looks like a retraced figure eight using 5MM spectra or kevlar. Using this material with nylon is high risk.

The climbing rope is running right over a sharp nubbin. Each anchor is clipped into only one carabiner.

Sunday, October 1, 2017

The ultimate mystery knot?

Two of everything, but at least three knots

Weaving runners together doesn't make then equalized or redundant.

Carabiners instead of real knots.

One old piece of climbing rope. There are knots at both ends, so it isn't even a loop.