Sunday, May 31, 2015

If you run the rope over a tree is that a second anchor?

Seemed like a good idea, but a dead limb isn't a great idea.

$500 worth of hardware is pretty tempting. The tree at the right is in the system. All those pieces could go away and he would never know.

He did ask about slinging the little rock. We did agree on turning the carabiner gate up and using a bowline instead of a clove hitch.

Sunday, May 24, 2015

Old enough to know better.

No stopper knot on the bowline. Yes, we tied one.

The second anchor had a bowline on a bight, also w/o a stopper, and a scrawny third tree for good measure.

Single strand webbing but lots of identifiable knots and padding at the edge.
There is a pad under the cordalette, but it is running over some sharp knobs.

Saturday, May 23, 2015

Great Falls. No knot, no mystery.

Single strand flat webbing, NOT tubular climbing webbing, and a mystery know

No knot, no mystery. It is working like a tensionless anchor, so it should hold.

The hollow tree tied off at the right was the only one rigged when we arrived, so these people passed up three trees and chose the one barely clinging to life.

Single strand webbing 3 feet above the base of the tree.

Wednesday, May 20, 2015

Yard Sale

Ancient yellow cargo strap, single carabiners, at least the gates are facing up.

Saturday, May 16, 2015

Old school, new school, still wrong.

Anchor rope could be bigger and longer so the climbing rope isn't rubbing on the rock.

There are chocks on either side of the block when the whole block could have been slung.

Yes its squishy boat rope. He knew it wasn't great but it was free.

Anchor with everything in the closet. I especially like the red 6mm cord girth hitched into the 2" webbing.

I guess he wanted to use all his carabiners.

Single strand webbing. Don't worry the small tree isn't holding any weight.

Friday, May 15, 2015

6mm anchor!

The orange rope is a rappel line, so at least it isn't a climbing anchor. The rope is at least 4 feet up the tree.

The line at left is 6mm accessory cord, attached with a single carabiner, gate facing towards the rock. The rope around the block in the background has one end going to the 6mm anchor and another to a different climb.

The second anchor for the other climb, almost more than 90 degrees away.

This yard sale is a rappel line and 2 ends of a rope rigged for roped solo climbing.

Yes, that's a quick link, with the collar grinding into the rock. That's a BFK so everything is AMGA OK, right?

Monday, May 11, 2015

So the BFK equalizes everything? No, no it does not

Lots of rope and still they use a carabiner, introducing a point of failure.

Stick that fat knot  in a flake.

A BFK sure, equalized, not so much.

Saturday, May 9, 2015

Sunday, May 3, 2015

Nothing Saturday, Sunday made up for it.

Runner, single biner and lots of single strand webbing. Equalized? Not so much.

"Let's use everything we own." Lots of carabiners instead of knots.

Lots of webbing, single biners attached to a sling

Maybe if you stood on the rock you could put the runner higher. 

Brand new gear, ready to sidled those biners.

Enough rope to tie around the tree and eliminate 2 points of value.

Anchor 3 feet up a 2 inch tree.