Thursday, December 31, 2015

Wednesday, December 30, 2015

Not what he thought.

This is NOT a tensionless anchor.

Plenty of rope, the carabiner and webbing are unnecessary and introduce risk.

Sunday, December 27, 2015

A rope that could tie off the Titanic.

This enormous rope is barely hanging on to the rock. The rock is loose and too small. Webbing is less likely to roll off the rock.

Plenty of rope and webbing but both come up short. The climbing rope is running over sharp edges.

Monday, December 21, 2015

First time in recorded history.

They DIDN'T tie off the tree 20 feet up in the air.

Lots of brand new rope.

The top carabiner is critical to the anchor, the bottom one is pointless.

Sunday, December 20, 2015

Any anchor that needs 2 four foot daisy chains has got to be a mistake.

Nobody can tie a knot anymore.

Two daisy chains at center, cams, webbing, 2 trees, complexity decreases security.

Saturday, December 19, 2015

Friday, December 18, 2015

You can call it a backup, but it's still a bad anchor

The orange rope could sling both boulders. Why partially sling the boulder at right with single strand, old webbing?

Yes, those are half hitches.

Sunday, December 13, 2015

72 Degrees and Feverish Behavior.

Ten feet up the tree, not the usual tree, that is the other anchor.

The now familiar webbing-carabiner combination adding unnecessary links to the chain.

The usual anchor 20 feet up a tree.

If you use the same anchor, it isn't redundant. That said, the tree is bomber.

Flying anchor from the tree in the air, the roots aren't in much soil on that ledge.

Second anchor, at least the carabiner isn't on the rock.

The green to red anchor has a single carabiner on a sharp edge.

Another flying anchor, with single carabiners.

The brown webbing isn't doing anything, tiny cams are doing all the work.

Most of the webbing sheaths aren't where the rope contacts the rock.

Lots of cordalettes girth hitched to webbing. The cord can cut through the webbing.

He moved the rope and ran it over the edges.

Saturday, December 12, 2015

Beautiful day, ugly anchors

Lots of girth hitches, webbing running over edges.

Worst placement ever on the left, not much better on the right. The block is big but loose, so the cams are levering it up.

Run your anchor across the trail.

Too high on the tree, slings and carabiners, despite lots of rope.

Bowlines with no stopper knots and too short tails.

Webbing when they had lots of rope.

Run your anchor over your friend's.

Scrawny tree, webbing etc.

One loose rock as an anchor.

Friday, December 11, 2015

Old enough to know better.

It was supposed to be a figure 8.
They had lots of rope, but didn't extend enough for the climbing rope to hang free. The rope running over the bag will burn through.

Tie off 20' up the tree.

Monday, December 7, 2015

Solo climbing season

It's hard to get a partner in December, even if it is 57 degrees. These runners aren't equalized, only the red is under tension. A single carabiner connects them to a static rope used as a solo rig.

Sunday, December 6, 2015

More mysteries

Single carabiner, begging to be side loaded.

This spider web has 2 trees, 3 cams, and a slung block.

Single carabiner, on a looped rope. If one strand fails, everything fails.

Even the bag get 2 cams for an anchor.

Another loop.

Single loose bowline, no stopper knot, about 6" of tail.

Saturday, December 5, 2015

Unclear on the idea of "redundant

One carabiner and a 1/4" alpine runner.

Single carabiners, a climbing (dynamic) rope, run through both anchors.

Single carabiner, climbing rope dragging over edges.

Friday, December 4, 2015

Lots of thought, about half bad.

Five anchors for this climb, each compromised. Three points of failure here, when one would be safer.

The two carabiner gates are opposed, but not reversed. Both gates are pressing against the rock.

The white anchors are 180 degrees apart, weakening the entire system. Everything depends on that one carabiner.

The rock at topic about 2 feet long and may be entirely unattached.