Sunday, October 30, 2016

Unclear on the concept.

Sort of tensionless anchor, since the clove hitch hasn't tightened.

Two bowline with less than 6 inches of tail and no stopper knots.

Thin dyneema runner and single strand nylon runner. Dyneema can cut nylon.

Thin runner, tiny tree, carabiners and a clove hitch, the whole package.

Saturday, October 29, 2016

Lazy and dumb, a winning combination.

Lots of perfectly good rope, didn't need the thin runner, carabiner and clove hitch. Not to mention he tiny tree. 

Same, and 3 feet up the tree.

Sunday, October 23, 2016

Why doesn't REI sell local climbing guides?

    REI just opened a 50,000 sq. ft. mega store in D.C. The one thing you can't buy is any local climbing guide. They claim they don't have the shelf space. Make REI the co-op again. Should we stop spending money there if the co-op was stolen by the $1 billion a year corporation.
    If you want the PATC guides for Carderock or Great Falls catch me at the crag, either book is discounted to $10 to make the transaction easier.


WTF? The knot in the white rope is a butterfly, so somebody had experience.

No, it isn't redundant.

Didn't make it over the edge. Looks like he used all his gear and his wardrobe

The gym instructors won't give this up.

He's back. Note the phone he left.

Could have used that runner full length and made it over the edge.

Saturday, October 22, 2016

Unclear on the concept.

You can do a tensionless anchor, or a bowline. When you do both, things start to not work.

Just tie a loop.

All that rope could replace the cordalette and carabiner. More links in the chain means more points of failure.

Sunday, October 16, 2016

Prefect day, imperfect anchors.

Sure, 3 anchors one one tree are probably enough.

Bring so much boat rope you need a luggage cart.

Overthinking badly.

Love the prusik tied in the stuff sack cord and two (2) cams.

1. 8mm cord, 2. not a tensionless anchor, 3. unnecessary single non-locking wire gate carabiner, 4. clove hitch.

Saturday, October 15, 2016

Perfect Fall Day.

It may be the biggest tree but look at the exposed roots.

One long rope to two anchors, but the independent figure 8 knots are connected by single carabiners to the climbing rope, and the climbing rope runs over a sharp edge.

Yes, you can break a 7/16" caving rope, if you tow your car wrong.

The break started as sheath strands unraveling, the break was inches away where the rope ran over an edge.

Monday, October 10, 2016

Beautiful day, ugly anchors.

Alpine runners are great, not so much in the high abrasion of a top rope anchor. The quickdraw at left goes to a tri-cam in that loose block. Slinging the block would create less leverage, the tri-cam has the highest leverage of any hardware.

Single, non-locking carabiner.

That's a 7mm cordalettte, too skinny, too stretchy.

Sunday, October 9, 2016

Had to use it all.

Still came up 6 inches short.

1. Don't use a carabiner instead of a knot.
2. Don't clip through the wraps of your tensionless anchor.

Tuesday, October 4, 2016

Yes,that is the climbing rope.

Not much friction, they couldn't get off the ground on a 5.9.

Climber trash. Do you want your chalk to be hot?