Sunday, September 27, 2015

Couldn't find a smaller tree?

This tree wobbles down to the roots, it is the most dangerous anchor at Carderock.

Bent gates are designed to be easily opened.

The tree is about 2 inches in diameter.

Saturday, September 26, 2015

A cracked block with twists in the webbing make this precarious.

The yellow webbing is not tied in a water knot, it is just an overhand.

Small tree, single stand webbing, not so good.

Single strand webbing in a tight pinch.

The block is partially buried, but it is not attached to anything.

A small TCU between 2 small blocks.

The static rope is tied into the carabiner with a couple of half hitches.

An awfully small tree.

Very bad placement of a #1 camalot.

Thursday, September 24, 2015

Side loading would be bad, so...

Cordalette around a loose block, not so good, so let's add a tree at about 120 degree angle to weaken the anchor.

But that would side load the biners, what if I use another biner, that's not side loaded right?

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

Sunday, September 20, 2015

22 pictures sets a record.

Euro sport climbers, everything is actually climbing gear.

Five feet up the tree, an unnecessary runner and carabiner.

I guess it's a bowline.

Clove hitch on nice new wire gate biners.

A cordalette, single carabiners, and a runner for a third anchor.

"I don't trust my anchors, so I'll sling this knob."

No backup, just inches of tail.

A yard sale of everything they had, but they still couldn't get over the edge.

Another unneeded sling and carabiner

The Euros moved here. The rope label said 200' 9mm static.

Can't stop them. See all the extra rope?

Lots of rope to just tie a knot.

This is not bedrock, just a block.

Looks like he figured out he had enough rope.

Loops of 9/16" webbing coming from the tree on the left and from the right.

Completely side loading the carabiners.

So they added 2 small cams, a runner, and a quickdraw.

One anchor, it is bedrock. The red runner and loop in the rope serve no obvious purpose.

The rope was tensioned to avoid slipping off.

Anchors made from what appears to be a new canyoneering rope.

Tied into a loop with the EDK (Euro Death Knot), most people would leave longer tails.

Girth hitched a bunch.

Saturday, September 19, 2015

I bought it, I must use it.

The increasingly popular carabiner instead of a knot. One manufacturer just recalled all their locking carabiners, that doesn't happen with knots.

Fortunately, there is a tree attached to this mess, bad placements, rope covers in the air, etc.

Another carabiner, with single strand webbing.

The purple webbing is girth hitched around a constriction.

More single strand webbing, rubbing on itself as it is weighted.

9/16" single strand webbing

Two cams, a doubled runner, then two quickdraws, then a cordalette.

Two more cams and webbing going to a second tree at about 120 degrees.

Thursday, September 17, 2015

The hollow tree calls.

Nice knot, but under tension it is guaranteed maximum abrasion on the rock.

Crossing lines isn't ideal

Th  hollow tree, the skinny tree, good thing this guy is getting paid.