Saturday, November 25, 2023

Scourge of the crags.

Tiny tree, single bowline, no stopper knot, boat rope, good thing the other anchor was OK.


 Hammock, chairs, the psychotic dog tied to the tree and boom box were removed.

Sunday, November 19, 2023

Beautiful day, ugly anchors.


Skinny alpine runners, single carabiners, this accessory cord.



Why would you use only one trunk of the tree?
 

Sunday, November 12, 2023

They said it was their first time climbing outside.

They had rope to spare but added the runner, carabiner and clove hitch, all potential points of failure.


 Brand new static line in need of a bigger anchor. They survived their first trip outside.

Monday, November 6, 2023

Death warrant?

Buy enough rope. Adding slings and carabiners introduces points of failure. Anchoring high in the tree increases leverage. A clove hitch isn't the best top rope anchor.

This is the anchor for Ronnie's Leap. Orange paint usually means cutting down the tree, or did they mean just cut one dead limb? The tree is fine and losing it would greatly complicate anchors on these popular climbs.


Get a real anchor, webbing way up on the trees is sketchy and hard on the trees.

One piece of webbing and the climbing rope is dragging over the top of the cliff.
 

Saturday, October 28, 2023

Darwin Award winner.

Run the rope over a small rock and see if you can pull it out of the ground.

The anchors are almost 180 degrees apart, single carabiners, and the anchors are way up in the trees. The tree on the right was shaking violently.



 

Wednesday, October 11, 2023

Return of clothes line.

If you really want two anchors, don't make them off the same point.

A couple of cams aren't a great help in this brittle rock.

All that mess converges on one thin runner.

The dead stump and skinny tree seem to call to people.

The stump has 1/4" clothes line, this hasn't been seen in decades.

The skinny tree gets a fat haul strap.

The clothes line goes to a single quick link, not a carabiner, there is no gate. I think that is a leaf caught in the rope.

Here the stump is paired with a tree with mostly exposed roots.

The anchors meet at two non-locking ovals that are being side loaded.

This is what you call suboptimal, the rope can saw away at the webbing.

We call this a yard sale, lay out everything you own and clip it together.

Not quite a tensionless anchor, the lines shouldn't cross and three wraps are the minimum.

Another daisy chain, these things are expensive for anchors.
 

Friday, October 6, 2023

Tie off a big enough rock.

 

The single rock has been known to move. Sling both rocks, they have never moved.

I wouldn't use that, and I wouldn't tie a bowline without a stopper knot.

Don't leave your expensive haul bag at the top for somebody to steal.

Maybe the extra rope piled at the left wasn't enough to get around the boulder. Note the unstable clove hitch backed up with an overhand.

Thursday, September 28, 2023

Optimism

One rope goes to the too small tree, the other off to  distant tree. Why not the enormous tree? Longer anchors invite points of failure and stretch more.

Tiny tree, high anchor, good thing the other anchor is doing all the work.

The ropes are 8MM, easily cut and stretchy.

Webbing is less likely to creep off the horn. An overhand loop knot would be more secure.

When you lay out everything you own and clip it together it's called a yard sale.
 

Tuesday, September 5, 2023

They can't resist the dead tree.

"My knot looks just like the guy's in the video but let's add a carabiner just in case.

The dead tree and it's too skinny companion remain popular.

That pile of sawdust means that lots of little creatures are cutting the tree down FROM THE INSIDE. Newly observed in this tree.

A perennial favorite anchor despite the rotten hollow, this tree show new work by the insects.
 

Monday, August 28, 2023

Maybe they think they can have better children.

 

The tree would creak every time it held weight. Note the "creative" knot. They had their kids hanging off this mess. The view below is much of their yard sale, you lay out everything you own and clip it together. They re sing webbing single strand, not the rated strength and prone to cutting. The placements are miraculous because they haven't failed, yet.

If the red cam even shifts a bit, the gold cam fails. You can see how slick the rock is, and it is known for shearing under impact. I nearly decked climbing on an anchor rigged in this crack when I weighted the rope to lower off. I hadn't seen the three pieces that pulled and was saved by an old climbing rope tied to a tree.


Monday, July 3, 2023

Dog days follies.

Long enough is good.

It's not a great idea to use a pulley. This is a rescue pulley, designed to accommodate two carabiners. The rope is dragging over rock edges.

The anchor is an enormous tree, but let's add the tiniest nut and cams.

Just in case lets put a tiny wire behind a flake.
 

Saturday, June 17, 2023

Too much like work.

Not the white board! Next it will be brainstorming and everyone having to be "heard."