Wednesday, April 28, 2021

Portable isn't part of the definition of an anchor.

Choices are getting harder on Nubble Face, just make sure your anchor doesn't move.
 

Sunday, April 25, 2021

"I'm too cheap to be safe."


 He knows 8mm cord is a bad idea but it's so cheap. Putting the anchor five feet up the tree means the law of physics aren't even a concept.

Sunday, April 18, 2021

How high?

The white rope should be right on the ground, the red rope is madness. Note the cross-loaded single carabiner.
Lots of single carabiners, gates pointed down towards the rock, and webbing running over sharp edges.
 

Saturday, April 17, 2021

Yard sale.

Everything they own laid out on the ground. Looks like there was plenty of extra static.
"Fresh green growth. Let's rip it out of the ground." Lots of people this year with no clue.
 

Sunday, April 11, 2021

Unclear on the concept.

 Not what they mean when they say use two anchors, and what's with the wraps around the smaller trunks?

Saturday, April 10, 2021

How many things wrong?


 1. dead tree; 2. lots of extra rope so the codalette, runner and carbines aren't necessary.

Wednesday, April 7, 2021

Camps are back.

After school activities aren't in full swing so parents are paying for their kids to go climbing. These "guides" doubled up on a dead tree (see the fungus on the bark) as an anchor. The tree is being pulled towards the edge, if it falls, it could crush any number of children. Note the nearby tree that fell a couple of years ago, narrowly missing a family.

Monday, April 5, 2021

Don't leave stuff at the top of the crag.

There is plenty of rope, instead they added a runner , carabiner, and clove hitch, all points of failure.
 Weird collection of mediocre anchors, the jackpot is the cam, cell phone and Gri-gri, waiting to be stolen.