Wednesday, March 29, 2017

When in doubt, use everything.

Two anchor points, but a single anchor. Single carabiners and even a descending ring, on the left, connect runners. They ran short and connected the climbing rope with a single carabiner.

Saturday, March 25, 2017

Carderock accident.

      An adult borrowed someone's climbing rig, setting up his kid to belay with an ATC. The kid didn't understand what that meant. The rope's owner offered to belay, or back the kid up, but the adult declined. When he fell he went straight to the ground. He had open fractures of the Tibia and Fibula, a severely dislocated ankle, and an injury to one arm. On the plus side, for the rest of his life, he will probably know when it is going to rain.

Spring follies.

If you use single strand webbing, I guess 2 is a good idea. Just understand they aren't 2 independent anchors if they go to the same tree.

This anchor runs across a busy trail to a tiny tree.

This mess includes a loose block, can in brittle rock, single strand webbing, the list goes on.

An anchor 10 feet up the tree really inn't good for the tree.

More hardware and single strand webbing.

The webbing is around a DEAD tree. The rescue plate allows two bad anchors instead of one.

When should you use prusik knots in an anchor? NEVER. 
Why use the enormous tree when you can use the smaller one? Note the 2 carabiners open in the same direction.

Equalized? Not when one rope is completely slack.

Single strand webbing tied in a bowline that is grinding on the rock every time it is weighted.

Friday, March 24, 2017

How many anchors

Three points, but one anchor.

Use the enormous tree? Nah, use the skinny ones.

Don't use all the rope, hang it short and let the climbing rope rub on a sharp edge.

Thursday, March 9, 2017

Do they know that carabiner was recalled?

Single strand webbing, easy to cut. Does that carabiner have the loose gate rivets that were recalled?