Saturday, March 30, 2019

March madness.

What's the mysterious knot (or not) in the red rope.

Single carabiner, gate down so it can be opened, on both anchors.

At least the gates are pointing up.

Webbing tied like rope, a single strand running over an edge. Note the worn spot just below the edge.

Friday, March 29, 2019

They're back!

Instant instructors (just add attitude), one whole day outside.

Thursday, March 28, 2019

Moldline

This is Goldline made in OD (olive drab, for those who missed the fun of the draft) for the military. It was cutting edge technology in 1939. Not very strong, they made it stretchy to avoid breaking. So, not a good anchor, climbers will be back on the ground if they fall in the first 10 feet.

Sunday, March 24, 2019

Loose rock at Carderock? Nah, but...

Run the rope under the roots to pull the tree out of the ground.

Use the small tree, not the enormous one?

The rock at the bottom ripped out of Jugs to Jersey, a seldom done climb until storm damage took the tree blocking part of it. Newbies think they are rigging Yellow Jacket.

The black area between the ropes is where the block was. Fresh rock means more loose rock. Nobody was hurt

Two black ropes are both up the tree increasing leverage

7MM (green) is not a real anchor.

The red tag means it is DEAD. Not tying off the end is a bonus.

Saturday, March 23, 2019

Few anchors, but ugly

Three feet up the tree, single carabiner, unnecessary sling and carabiner.

7MM, probably not nylon, threaded through nylon.

Monday, March 18, 2019

Bedrock good, little rock bad.

The usual sling and carabiner adding unnecessary links to the belay chain. The tiny wire doesn't help much, but wait there's more...

Add a wired stopper behind a loose flake, not so secure clove hitch, and Bigfoot.

Sunday, March 17, 2019

Be afraid, be very afraid.

Why you shouldn't use carabiners instead of knots. This carabiner is unlocked.

The tiny trees aren't much of an anchor.

The "barely a bowline" isn't much better for the other anchor.

Saturday, March 16, 2019

Do you want to be that guy killed by a vegetable?

Chocks are not a great idea in this rock, at least the big hex is least likely to fail. The webbing and carabiners add unnecessary points of failure.

Adding the shaky tree doesn't really add security. If it pulls out it turns into a missile,

Bowline without safety tie off for the end.

Thursday, March 14, 2019

Spring brings them out.

I know it is a big rock but it is attached to absolutely nothing. Does slinging the tiny rock below it help?

Good placements, but gear anchors are highly prone to breaking this rock. They survived.

Tensionless anchor? Well, almost.

Saturday, March 9, 2019

Only one anchor is really working.

That may be a good thing since the second anchor is on the tiny curved tree growing out of the rock.