Sunday, April 28, 2019

Want free gear from REI?

All this stuff is for an anchors course, note the board with bolts. A guy lost a pack with $400 in gear a few months ago, not a person in sight here.

Saturday, April 27, 2019

Tiny tree, one anchor is bad, two, you have to be kidding.

The tiny tree on the right has two anchors. The top one is single strand webbing, prone to cutting, like the red anchor at left. The lower anchor has a single runner and one carabiner, adding two points of failure and weaker than the static rope.

The tiny tree is a joke, the anchors aren't independent.

The clove hitch is close to side loading the carabiner.

The rope is slack, it isn't part of the system. It is too high up the tree, and is barely a tensionless anchor.

Saturday, April 20, 2019

Yes, the red tag means the tree is dead.

Two knots and two carabiners to make a loop instead of one knot. The rope is Bluewater II, excellent static rope, too bad you can't buy it in DC.

I thought I got the red tag, but I sure don't see it. Anyway, very dead tree, poor choice for an anchor.

Tiny tree, and if you're going to use an unneeded carabiner, use a bent gate that opens more easily.

Tuesday, April 16, 2019

That's not what they mean when they say use 2 carabiners.

Lots of extra rope, but they used a runner and carabiner. The anchor in the background is running over the sharp edge of a loose block.

Really? Gates down?

Runner around the hollow tree. Single carabiners on the left.

Monday, April 15, 2019

How many anchors?

Three points going to one rope, so one anchor. Single strand webbing is a bad idea, very prone to cutting.

Anchor points way apart.

Sunday, April 14, 2019

Neither rain nor greasy rock nor muddy shoes shall keep the Climbing Industrial Complex from making money..

Lots of extra rope, they didn't need the small cord and carabiners. The mantra is "Fewest links in the chain."

Is that six inches, AMGA?

Saturday, April 13, 2019

How many things wrong

Three feet up the tree, taking up part of a trail. Despite having lots of rope they add an unnecessary runner and carabiners.

See all that fungus, that means a really dead tree (See Monty Python's Dead Parrot sketch). Single strand webbing, just so all there anchors suck.

This probably took real effort.

Thursday, April 11, 2019

Spring break

Such a bad idea, the rope can wear hard on the webbing.
How many things wrong? 1. Loose block anchor 2. Tiny tree 3. Maybe 8MM anchor 4. Webbing is side loading the carabiners 5. The webbing anchor creates a system over 90 degrees, so it is actually weakening the system.


Wednesday, April 10, 2019

The black vultures approve.

Tiny alpine runner with a single carabiner. Note the hollow tree.

Dead trees.

Hoping for disaster?

Tuesday, April 9, 2019

Why the AMGA figure 8 guideline was a terrible, terrible idea.

A tensionless anchor on their little tree is a good thing, as we saw last week. Using the carabiner, not so good. They can be stolen. On the same anchor...

They taught you the prusik, not a bad thing, but don't leave it here where anybody can take it. 

AMGA said don't use  stopper knot on the figure 8, no surprise we are starting to see bowlines without one.

The other anchor, same thing. If you are going to do dogma, you have to own the results., just ask the Pope.

Figure 8? Figure 9? No, figure it out.

Monday, April 8, 2019

You bought your rope too short, and thin, and naked and...

The 9MM rope was too short so he went with slings with carabiner gates pointing down so they can be forced open. The dinky tree is supplemented by another chock anchor, which is always a bad idea in this rock.

Wednesday, April 3, 2019

Tourists

Maybe they are tourists and don't have much to anchor with. Hardware is not a good idea, much less in loose  blocks.

Neither block is bedrock, note the carabiner pointing down, likely to be forced  open.

It is bedrock but would you like something bigger?

There is plenty of rope to sling the block in the foreground. No need for all the shaky piece, runner and two dogbones.