All this stuff is for an anchors course, note the board with bolts. A guy lost a pack with $400 in gear a few months ago, not a person in sight here. |
Sunday, April 28, 2019
Want free gear from REI?
Saturday, April 27, 2019
Tiny tree, one anchor is bad, two, you have to be kidding.
The tiny tree is a joke, the anchors aren't independent. |
The clove hitch is close to side loading the carabiner. |
The rope is slack, it isn't part of the system. It is too high up the tree, and is barely a tensionless anchor. |
Saturday, April 20, 2019
Yes, the red tag means the tree is dead.
Two knots and two carabiners to make a loop instead of one knot. The rope is Bluewater II, excellent static rope, too bad you can't buy it in DC. |
I thought I got the red tag, but I sure don't see it. Anyway, very dead tree, poor choice for an anchor. |
Tiny tree, and if you're going to use an unneeded carabiner, use a bent gate that opens more easily. |
Tuesday, April 16, 2019
That's not what they mean when they say use 2 carabiners.
Monday, April 15, 2019
How many anchors?
Sunday, April 14, 2019
Neither rain nor greasy rock nor muddy shoes shall keep the Climbing Industrial Complex from making money..
Saturday, April 13, 2019
How many things wrong
Three feet up the tree, taking up part of a trail. Despite having lots of rope they add an unnecessary runner and carabiners. |
See all that fungus, that means a really dead tree (See Monty Python's Dead Parrot sketch). Single strand webbing, just so all there anchors suck. |
This probably took real effort. |
Thursday, April 11, 2019
Spring break
Wednesday, April 10, 2019
Tuesday, April 9, 2019
Why the AMGA figure 8 guideline was a terrible, terrible idea.
A tensionless anchor on their little tree is a good thing, as we saw last week. Using the carabiner, not so good. They can be stolen. On the same anchor... |
They taught you the prusik, not a bad thing, but don't leave it here where anybody can take it. |
AMGA said don't use stopper knot on the figure 8, no surprise we are starting to see bowlines without one. |
The other anchor, same thing. If you are going to do dogma, you have to own the results., just ask the Pope. |
Figure 8? Figure 9? No, figure it out. |
Monday, April 8, 2019
You bought your rope too short, and thin, and naked and...
Wednesday, April 3, 2019
Tourists
Maybe they are tourists and don't have much to anchor with. Hardware is not a good idea, much less in loose blocks. |
Neither block is bedrock, note the carabiner pointing down, likely to be forced open. |
It is bedrock but would you like something bigger? |
There is plenty of rope to sling the block in the foreground. No need for all the shaky piece, runner and two dogbones. |
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