Sunday, June 30, 2019

Why not a knot?

Way up the tree, with carabiners instead of knots.

Adding a tree root at a 90 degree angle weakens the anchor, if it is really in the system,.

The black webbing is slack, the green webbing on the tiny tree is the only working anchor.

Single bowline, tiny tree, no stopper knot.

Encore.

Monday, June 24, 2019

Have two anchors, especially when they suck.

If the tree is too small, use just one root. Add a runner and carabiner for two points of failure.
Tie a single bowline without a backup knot.

Friday, June 21, 2019

"The gym guy taught me to do this. I know it's bullshit but I can't stop."

First, they had enough rope to not use the 7MM cord, single carabiner, unstable clove hitch. The 7MM is slack on one side. With 3 strands of the 11MM and 2 of the 7MM in the carabiner, 3 holding weight, 2 not, make side loading a high risk.

Sunday, June 16, 2019

Yard sale.

The skinniest runner they make.

Carabiners that are not reversed or opposed, and wire gates facing down so they can be forced open.

Sling the big loose block.

Yes, that is the climbing rope dragging across the cliff.

Saturday, June 15, 2019

When that's all ya got.

Sling a piece of the loose block, use one carabiner, gate opening down towards the rock.

Don't worry, there is a real anchor rope under the tiny TCU.

Friday, June 14, 2019

Two climbs on one carabiner.

One rope, one anchor, two climbs, and one carabiner instead of a knot.

That tree really isn't big enough, and having the rope 3 feet up increases leverage on the roots.

Two 7 MM cordalettes, four carabiners, but would you choose wire gates?

Wednesday, June 12, 2019

They're back.

New vans filled with teenagers to become instant climbing instructors for summer camps.

Tuesday, June 11, 2019

Compared to leading, the anchor isn't bad.

They said they knew the rock breaks, they lead anyway. Here's their top rope anchor: loose block, sharp edge, more than 90 degrees between anchor points and...

a single cam.

Saturday, June 8, 2019

Somewhere a boat is missing its rope.

Big, squishy, nobody is going to die, but this is evidence of questionable judgement.

Single strand webbing, not a loop that it is designed for. Single carabiner and the skinniest  alpine webbing they make.

How does side loading happen? Pretty easily, this is how you can still break a carabiner.

Tuesday, June 4, 2019

Why is 7MM a bad idea?

Blogger hasn't let me respond to a question about  7MM. It isn't static, so it stretches every time it holds weight, making it prone to cutting. Lots of spare rope, so the 7 MM isn't necessary.