It's hard to be an oak tree at Carderock.

 OK, this poor root is the primary anchor, webbing stretches more than static rope. Give roots a break. The webbing connects to static rope with the evil clove hitch, OK if it is in front of you, not OK when you can't see it.

Yard sale.

Love the sling, carabiner and clove hitch above the big hole in the trunk.

The yard sale, where you lay out everything you own, including a quick link you bought at a hardware store.

Single strand webbing, anchors way apart, practically cross loading the carabiners.

Single cam, barely in the crack, next to a block that is a great anchor.

 

Don't leave your gear at the top of the crag, it will disappear.

If you can't tie the right knot, tie lots.

They can't stay away from the refrigerator, despite its terrifying overhang.

Could be a bowline tied around the wrong strand of rope. How does that work?

 When you trash your new anchor rope on the first day, use an alpine butterfly to take the bad spot out of the system.

Madness.

Single bowline, a half hitch is no real tie off and a DEAD tree.

 Madness.

Miracles every day at Carderock.

"Yes, I am a sport climber and yes, this is all the gear I own."

You can do a tensionless anchor with three wraps, but they should be tight around the tree to really work well. Luckily the carabiner is an auto locker since the gate is pressing against the rock. Don't use a carabiner, use a knot that cinches down like half a double fisherman's

 

Every choice a bad one.

This is how you break a carabiner.

Too small tree, cams in rock that breaks, this is a nightmare

Single strand webbing, they padded the edge of the cliff, but didn't cover the other sharp edges

 

Climbing magic.

Anchor three feet up a too small tree, the good news, it isn't being loaded.

The magic, there's no knot. It's a tensionless anchor made with a bight of the rope. Usually it is done with a single strand, and the end is tied around the standing end of the rope. The carabiner is the only thing keeping the whole thing from unraveling.