Thursday, March 31, 2022

Anchors way up the trees increase the leverage on the trees, all bad, no excuse here.
 

Sunday, March 27, 2022

Not quite tensionless.


 Barely enough wraps and crossed strands, but the real issue is the single carabiner. A knot is safer, stronger and simpler, one less link in the chain.

Saturday, March 26, 2022

Spring floods the trail when you leave it a mess for five years.

 

The tree on the right fell over more than five years ago. It pulled out the rock steps and the creek now tuns into the trail. NPS and PATC can't agree what to di so they have done nothing.
I know, I know, you paid a ton of money for these things, but this is not a good place for them. The rock breaks. Ask yourself how many of the thousands of stone buildings in Washington are built of this stone. If you don't believe that, google the guy at the Aid Box at Great Falls ripping all his gear out.

Thursday, March 17, 2022

Missed it by THAT much.


Ran out of rope. The carabiner with gate down is sub-optimal and the clove hitch is just dangerous.

A really old, skinny alpine runner with a single wire gate carabiner.

The other anchor repeats the runner/carabiner combination.
 

Sunday, March 6, 2022

Spring brings them out.

Everything comes down to one carabiner at lower right.


This single anchor is attached to rock that is known to move. If you also sling the second rock behind it, they don't move. The bowline has not tie off knot. The AMGA told people that a figure 8 didn't need a tie off, since then we've seen bowlines without the back up.

This mess comes down to one carabiner.

I found a group tied off to this today, they said their guide tied it. The guy said he works for a local gym and he thought this was a good anchor. I told him to move the anchor or I would take a picture and send it to his boss. He's out there, he had bunch of clients, this is insane.
 

Friday, March 4, 2022

Don't buy crap from Amazon.

 

The rotting stump is an interesting choice for an anchor.

Skinny rope, single bowline, no tie off knot, but Jeff Bezos is happy.