Saturday, April 30, 2022

Give a kid a rack and you have created a problem.

People want to climb, so rig this it must be something right? Yeah, it's 13b.


They just love slinging trees high, vastly increasing the leverage on the tree. Your webbing is not a rope, it is rated for climbing as a loop, not to mention being really prone to cutting.

Apparently, this knot prevents you from doing a face plant in the dirt.

The flying anchor is rarely a good idea.

Junior used his brand new rack to come up with this.

Then he used all his cams and a cordalette when there was a lot of beefy static rope to make an anchor.
 

Sunday, April 24, 2022

Do two bad anchors equal one good one?

If you use two, too skinny trees, they do not equal one good one. Equalization is a myth, no matter what the guys on the Internet tell you. Note the unstable clove hitch, an attempt to tension the anchor. The good news, the other anchor took all the weight, these anchors never tightened under weight.
 

Saturday, April 23, 2022

If the tree is too small for one anchor, is it OK for two?




People tell me that REI now tries to sell you accessory cord as a top rope anchor. This stuff looks like it just came out of the package. Note the "creative"attachment to the bottom runner.
 

Monday, April 18, 2022

This refrigerator can kill.

 

It weighs tons but overhangs the cliff by more than a foot. It's called spalling, the block breaks tiny pieces off the bedrock below it. It might not be today, but that is how the big blocks at the base got there.

LEARN TO TIE A BOWLINE. Using an unstable clove hitch and a single carabiner to get an adjustable knot adds points of failure.

Saturday, April 16, 2022

This is an "instructor's" work.

That's the climbing rope dragging over the rock, no wonder the anchor is high. The purpose of the parachute cord is mysterious.


People paid to hang off this, a high anchor off twigs and everything depends on one carabiner.


 If the carabiner failed, eventually the slack line is supposed to save the day.

Saturday, April 9, 2022

It's better to look good than to be good.

Hardware is a bad idea in the rock but she didn't care. She has 3 pieces in, the absolute minimum for any gear belay. You can see one of the carabiners has the gate down so they can be forced open, it's a wire gate to make that easier. The wired nut in the middle doesn't appear to be clipped into the anchor system. The anchor material looks like a 9MM cordalette, strong but vulnerable to cutting. The yellow rope its clipped in with a single carabiner.

More 9MM rope with a single carabiner.
 

Sunday, April 3, 2022

Spring is here, and the idiots are out.

Still dead.

Yard sale, they lay out everything they own.

Tiny tree rigged way up the trunk.

How about 20 feet up?
Add the loose block for your anchor.

Unstable clove hitch, carabiner and cordalette, all unnecessary because he had plenty of rope.


Same thing again.