Friday, September 11, 2015

They're baaack.

Single strand webbing clipped into itself, single carabiners, a clove hitch in the static rope with a backup knot.

Old climbing rope looped around tree.

A big overhand know, they are climbing on static rope.

Monday, September 7, 2015

What have we learned?

With just over a year of observations, it is fair to ask if there are any conclusions that suggest themselves. There have been changes in how people learn to top rope safely, and what they do with that information.
  1. Mentorship, learning from more experienced climbers is pretty much dead.
  2. Clubs now stress formal training, not mentorship.
  3. Most people learn from paid instructors (“certified”,“professional”, aren’t meaningful), most of what they learn, they don’t practice.
  4. The only thing most people learn is to have 2 anchors.
  5. The Internet is a source of stunning misinformation.
  6. Real climbing gear retailers are an endangered species, chain stores don’t employ knowledgeable people, and online retailers don’t really engage the customer.
Top rope anchors used to be made from 3/8” static rope, or, less preferable 1” webbing. Most static rope carried by retailers is thinner, and much of it doesn’t meet UIAA standards for static (less than 5% stretch under low impact). HMS (pear shaped) carabiners were designed for the Munter Hitch, they are prone to side loading in a top rope rig. People assume that any gear advertised for climbing is safe for top roping.

The most important element of climbing safety is critical thinking.

Are people lazier on Labor Day?

Lots of ropes tied together, still couldn't start at the bottom of the tree.

Lots of 9mm rope, sling and biner added.

Lots of rope left to sling a block, not the time tree, and put a stopper on the rope in the foreground.

Sunday, September 6, 2015

When is a tree REALLY dead?

The tree is almost hollow

So is this tree, at least the tie in is low.

Use a 3 inch tree as a directional?

Yes, it's another tow strap.

Webbing tied into a single strand.

Good ropes, why use the carabiner?

Saturday, September 5, 2015

"This place SOO needs bolts," he said.

Guess that's why he has new webbing up in the tree. An hour later his belayer dropped him, fortunately the Cabin John Rescue Squad was practicing here.

Two static ropes, lots of nice knots and the carabiner for a flourish.

The runner is doing nothing.

Thursday, September 3, 2015

So few anchors, so much wrong.

Webbing used single strand like a rope.

An 8mm cordalette, girth hitched to another for an anchor.

Might as well add a tiny tri-cam.

Old black webbing girth hitched around a knot in new yellow webbing.

Anchoring 20 feet up this tree has become standard practice.

Let's add a sharp edge and see if we can pull out this block.

Wednesday, September 2, 2015

When you solo, nobody can tell you you're stupid.

Not tensionless, not a knot.

More carabiners, even though he tied bowlines.

He was using 2 static lines for self belay. The prussik was probably used to go over the edge for rigging, another bad idea making the rounds.