Sunday, May 19, 2019

How many ways?

1. Single strand webbing, easy to cut 2. The sling around the block needs the stoppers to stay in place. Stoppers break the rock here, the gates of the carabiners are pointed down easily forced open.

Lots more single strand webbing. The tree at left is anchored half was up the trunk, increasing leverage on the tree. The red webbing in the center goes around one of the two rocks. If you use both rocks, it never moves, if you use one it can move.

Friday, May 17, 2019

If the rope is completely flaccid, that makes it a back up.


Sometimes you wonder how old school got to be that old. Ratty old climbing rope and a couple of stoppers.

Saturday, May 11, 2019

How many ways?

1. The rope and the enormous tree would have been fine. 2. There is enough rope to do another anchor if you must have overkill. 3. The 90 degree angle anchor is decreasing the strength of the system. 4. The white runner is side loading the carabiners, decreasing their strength. 5. The white dyneema is threaded through single strand nylon, in a real anchor it could cut the nylon.

Tuesday, May 7, 2019

Choices, choices...

1. insecure clove hitch, 2. unnecessary carabiner and sling, 3. tiny tree, 4 What is with that sling? Guaranteed to lever the roots right out of the ground, and...

enough extra rope to tie a completely adjustable bowline to a real anchor.

Monday, May 6, 2019

If I tie a bad knot, will another one make it better?

The blue webbing through the 8MM is not great, I guess the good news is that it isn't holding any weight.

The clove hitch isn't a great knot in this situation, so he added the overhand on a bight. A bowline in the black rope would be every bit as adjustable and eliminate the carabiner and runner.

Saturday, May 4, 2019

Can a cam have zero contact? Apparently!

The rope is coming from far off to the left. The crack with the cams is part of a big flake.

It appears that the shaft is all that is holding the gold cam.
Lobes are pretty much making zero contact.


Wednesday, May 1, 2019

Why is this a thing?

Where did this come from? The high anchor that is supposedly braced by the two anchors.  They aren't carrying much of a load, if any.

Nylon on nylon, rope through webbing, not a good thing, use carabiners if necessary.

Brand new anchor, but they got the wrong stuff. They had only enough webbing to reach as a single strand, highly likely to cut. This tree and rock are close to the cliff, so this anchor won't work for most Carderock climbs