Sunday, April 11, 2021

Unclear on the concept.

 Not what they mean when they say use two anchors, and what's with the wraps around the smaller trunks?

Saturday, April 10, 2021

How many things wrong?


 1. dead tree; 2. lots of extra rope so the codalette, runner and carbines aren't necessary.

Wednesday, April 7, 2021

Camps are back.

After school activities aren't in full swing so parents are paying for their kids to go climbing. These "guides" doubled up on a dead tree (see the fungus on the bark) as an anchor. The tree is being pulled towards the edge, if it falls, it could crush any number of children. Note the nearby tree that fell a couple of years ago, narrowly missing a family.

Monday, April 5, 2021

Don't leave stuff at the top of the crag.

There is plenty of rope, instead they added a runner , carabiner, and clove hitch, all points of failure.
 Weird collection of mediocre anchors, the jackpot is the cam, cell phone and Gri-gri, waiting to be stolen.

Saturday, March 27, 2021

It's spring, they crawl out from under rocks.

The red webbing is clipped to the black ropes for what purpose?
All that black rope could simply tie around the tree, eliminating three points of failure.
 

Sunday, March 14, 2021

The dead tree calls.

When a tree is covered in fungus, it is dead, really, really dead.
Give the tree a break, put the rope at the base. If you have to use a carabiner, put the gate facing away from the rock so it can't be forced open.

Sunday, March 7, 2021

New season, same old stuff.

We don't need no stinking laws of physics.

Well, it's sort of a bowline.

The little cam with the carabiner gate pointed down towards the rock is the primary anchor. Buying a cordalette, doesn't ensure equalization.