Monday, September 5, 2022

From mediocre to miracle.

Part 1: A skinny tree with single strand webbing wrapped high, secured with a single carabiner. It was an attempt at a frictionless anchor but poorly executed.

Part 2: The patriotic theme continues with a single strand of red webbing coming in at a 90 degree angle from another tree, completed by the white rope.

The blue webbing goes to only one carabiner which it is side loading. The white rope goes only to the second carabiner.The red webbing appears to go to only the first carabiner. The climbing rope has a twist right at the anchor, and is grinding over a rock edge. To my knowledge, no climbers were harmed by this anchor, a true miracle.

Apparently, physics is a mystery, leverage isn't a concept.

Too small tree, botched tensionless anchor and a single wire gate carabiner is mission critical.

An experienced climber rigged this. Those are overhand loop knots connected with a single carabiner. The '"tree on stilts" is clinging to a ledge with precious little soil left. This is the only anchor.

Refreshingly simple stupidity, there's enough rope to tie a completely adjustable bowline around that tree, eliminating a sling, carabiner, and insecure clove hitch.
 

Monday, August 29, 2022

Don't leave your stuff at the top of the crag.

All this gear laying around is a temptation. It may feel like a wilderness but you're only a mile from the beltway.
 

Saturday, August 13, 2022

All minds are not equal.


This guy really doesn't like the "Refrigerator" block because it is way overhung on the other side. He chooses to loop a sling over a slippery edge. If it comes off, it jerks on the Refrigerator with real force. It's still summer, don't leave your gear up top to tempt juvenile delinquents.

The anchor is way too high on a too small tree. He tied a perfectly adjustable bowline, but added a figure 8, carabiner and clove hitch. Where did he epidemic of clove hitches come from?
 

Friday, August 12, 2022

Belt and suspenders, but...

Bowline tied with a bight, nice tie-off knot, so the carabiner is overkill, waiting to be stolen. Yes, that's a thing, though more at Great Falls.

But the tree is majorly hollow.
 

Monday, July 25, 2022

Everything is a choice.

First, the tree is a bad choice, it is standing on exposed roots. Second, there is plenty of rope, no need for the sling and carabiners, potential points of failure. Third, the sling isn't around both trunks, he could have done a girth hitch to lengthen the runner, and get it lower on the tree.
 

Tuesday, July 12, 2022

Tempting carabiners.

Tensionless anchors, but way high on the tree.

Its mate is better but the pricey, black anodized, locking carabiner must cost at least $30 for the pair. Stuff does disappear from anchors, it isn't common, but it happens. Tying off the loose end with a knot ids safer and less tempting.


 

Is your crack too shallow?

 


Single strand webbing isn't a great idea.


Neither is hardware in friable rock.

A closer look reveals more problems.The top cam is tilted, barely in contact with the rock. The crack is too shallow for the cam, it is hanging on by the thinnest of margins.
Same problem with the tricamand the sling is twisted, much easier to pull out.




If you're going to have an anchor it should be an anchor, not a joke.