DumbAnchors
A collection of dubious top rope climbing anchors.
Thursday, October 3, 2024
Unclear on the concept.
Lots of extra rope, bowline on a bight, but a half hitch as a tie off, suboptimal.
Barely hanging on at that point. This is important due to the rest of the anchor.
If that shaky anchor slips, the whole left side started whipping around.
Saturday, August 31, 2024
What's the real anchor?
That little bitty partially. buried rock is the real anchor. If that pops off, the rope will straighten and probably come off the big rock.
Monday, August 26, 2024
Dental floss.
This appears to be 6mm accessory cord. The good news is that it really isn't part of the system. The bad news is that it could easily cut. It is rated as strong enough, but the quartz nubbins could make quick work of it.
Wednesday, August 21, 2024
How many twigs should you tie off?
Apparently two is good enough.
If it isn't big enough to be THE anchor, it shouldn't be AN anchor.
Don't leave stuff at the top, especially about $150 in climbing gear. Love the laminated belay anchor card, it probably came with an expensive course.
This yard sale is pretty tempting.
The AMGA used to claim that the BFK was auto-equalizing. Well, no.
Saturday, August 3, 2024
What's wrong with this picture?
Picking the dead limb is what we call suboptimal.
If it just hanging limp it is a back up, not equalized.
If you sling both of these blocks, they won't move. If you sling just one, it moves.
Putting the anchor way up in the tree increases the force on the tree.
Thursday, June 27, 2024
It would be great if it weren't dead.
Eastern cedars have deep roots, but the complete absence of needles tells us it is dead.
Using two independent figure 8's means the anchor really isn't equalized.
How big is that rock? How much is underground?
Webbing used single strand, hardware in breakable rock.
Another mystery rock, this time with single strand webbing.
Saturday, June 1, 2024
Mystery knots.
I think it was an attempt at a figure 8.
This one is on a bight.
The ever popular tiny tree and dead stump.
The anchor is one large loop, tied together in the center.
The knots.
No idea.
Looks like a bowline on a hollow tree, so it is backed up with...
wraps around a rotten log secured with a couple of half hitches.
Newer Posts
Older Posts
Home
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)