Friday, August 7, 2015

All anchors matter.

3 out of 4 anchors were fine. Lots of rope left to put this rope down at the bottom of the tree where it belongs.

Double dental floss to the same tree, single carabiner.

Thursday, August 6, 2015

Vandalism

Summer camps make a bundle of money at Carderock. A group run by Adventure Links left just before I found this. No sign of it last night, so it was done Thursday.

This is on Barnacle Face AKA X Face, Carderock's prime bouldering area.

The flake at left is part of several problems, done for decades. This is a federal offense. How will Adventure Links handle this?

You know, your anchor may not be the place to try to save money.

Wednesday, August 5, 2015

It looked OK, but...

Two brand new Bluewater static anchors, see the end tag. What's that knot?

Nice bowline, but the only anchor is the jammed rope. Certifiable insane.

Sunday, August 2, 2015

Doesn't anybody look at trees?

Seriously?

Hollow tree, single strand webbing, etc.etc.

Small nut, little contact, crack widens on both sides of the placement.
When you aren't sure of the knot, tie lots.

Black single strand webbing from the left, purple in the center, all tied into 8MM.
The sawdust pile grows, but they still tie in.



Saturday, August 1, 2015

August, nobody around except the idiots.

This horn is getting a lot of use since a tree fell over. Single strand webbing is still a bad idea.

Single strand, 10 feet up a tree.


Same webbing, different climb. One guy said "Dude only the blue webbing is working."

Two cams, the second is at the top of the crack. That's the only anchor.

Not a big block, not really attached.

Here's a better view of the top cam, you can see the block is not attached.

Friday, July 31, 2015

Unclear on the concept, or don't buy random stuff on the internet.

Brand new climbing rope through enormous ring, then two carabiners. No knot here in the anchor rope, so it is a large loop, complete with pricey rope condoms.

Since the rope is a loop, it is a single anchor. It was wrapped around the tree, then tied with a figure 8 follow through and double overhands.

Sunday, July 26, 2015

Most creative use of jeans.

A single carabiner for the rope. Apparently the large knot is to smack you in the face so you know you're done.

Climbing rope as anchor, plus unattached rock.

Everything they owned, run through a pair of somebody's jeans.