Saturday, March 27, 2021

It's spring, they crawl out from under rocks.

The red webbing is clipped to the black ropes for what purpose?
All that black rope could simply tie around the tree, eliminating three points of failure.
 

Sunday, March 14, 2021

The dead tree calls.

When a tree is covered in fungus, it is dead, really, really dead.
Give the tree a break, put the rope at the base. If you have to use a carabiner, put the gate facing away from the rock so it can't be forced open.

Sunday, March 7, 2021

New season, same old stuff.

We don't need no stinking laws of physics.

Well, it's sort of a bowline.

The little cam with the carabiner gate pointed down towards the rock is the primary anchor. Buying a cordalette, doesn't ensure equalization.

 

Saturday, January 30, 2021

Warm enough for January.

An unnecessary sling and carabiner, gate down so it could be forced open, plus stretchy 8mm, and an overhand knot.
Part of the spider's web.


The rest of the spider's web.
 
It's a joke, but we're seeing a lot like it. No stopper knot, courtesy of the AMGA.

Thursday, January 21, 2021

Learn to tie a bowline with a bight.

The other anchors were bowlines, he had the rope but didn't know how to tie the knot with a bight. Two problems with using carabiners, a single carabiner is a point of failure and, yes, people steal carabiners from anchors. It is more common at Great Falls but not unheard of at Carderock.
 

Sunday, January 17, 2021

Well, it's a backup.

The nice fat rope is a good anchor, the tiny cord with single wire gate carabiners, not so much. He's using a cam and a nut, prone to ripping right out in the rock. Somebody asked if that was a myth. We live in a city of stone buildings, not one made from this rock, it is never used where it would be weight bearing.

 

Sunday, January 10, 2021

Another air anchor.

If you must use this tree, how about putting the rope BELOW the weak spot.