Friday, January 26, 2024

The thought process its elusive.

Learn to tie off a bowline. Carabiners have been known to disappear at Carderock and Great Falls. 
Perfect for tripping hikers.
That's a single carabiner at the climbing rope.
That's not redundant, and thin webbing on the rock is what you call suboptimal.
This is called a "Yard Sale", lay everything out and clip it together.
A lot of thought went into this, not good thought, but a lot. Some of the hardware are Quicklinks, not carabiners, so no gate.

Saturday, November 25, 2023

Scourge of the crags.

Tiny tree, single bowline, no stopper knot, boat rope, good thing the other anchor was OK.


 Hammock, chairs, the psychotic dog tied to the tree and boom box were removed.

Sunday, November 19, 2023

Beautiful day, ugly anchors.


Skinny alpine runners, single carabiners, this accessory cord.



Why would you use only one trunk of the tree?
 

Sunday, November 12, 2023

They said it was their first time climbing outside.

They had rope to spare but added the runner, carabiner and clove hitch, all potential points of failure.


 Brand new static line in need of a bigger anchor. They survived their first trip outside.

Monday, November 6, 2023

Death warrant?

Buy enough rope. Adding slings and carabiners introduces points of failure. Anchoring high in the tree increases leverage. A clove hitch isn't the best top rope anchor.

This is the anchor for Ronnie's Leap. Orange paint usually means cutting down the tree, or did they mean just cut one dead limb? The tree is fine and losing it would greatly complicate anchors on these popular climbs.


Get a real anchor, webbing way up on the trees is sketchy and hard on the trees.

One piece of webbing and the climbing rope is dragging over the top of the cliff.
 

Saturday, October 28, 2023

Darwin Award winner.

Run the rope over a small rock and see if you can pull it out of the ground.

The anchors are almost 180 degrees apart, single carabiners, and the anchors are way up in the trees. The tree on the right was shaking violently.



 

Wednesday, October 11, 2023

Return of clothes line.

If you really want two anchors, don't make them off the same point.

A couple of cams aren't a great help in this brittle rock.

All that mess converges on one thin runner.

The dead stump and skinny tree seem to call to people.

The stump has 1/4" clothes line, this hasn't been seen in decades.

The skinny tree gets a fat haul strap.

The clothes line goes to a single quick link, not a carabiner, there is no gate. I think that is a leaf caught in the rope.

Here the stump is paired with a tree with mostly exposed roots.

The anchors meet at two non-locking ovals that are being side loaded.

This is what you call suboptimal, the rope can saw away at the webbing.

We call this a yard sale, lay out everything you own and clip it together.

Not quite a tensionless anchor, the lines shouldn't cross and three wraps are the minimum.

Another daisy chain, these things are expensive for anchors.