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| The black rope going to the 3" diameter tree at right is the only active anchor. That may be the good news since the webbing is about to add a few more feet of slack when it slips off its perch. Of course both anchors are 3 feet up in the air when they should be at the base of the trees. |
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| Why tie the anchor 3 feet up half of the tree? The figure 8 follow through is a bad choice to secure the end on a tensionless anchor. Given the appearance of the double overhand, they didn't have confidence in their ability to tie it right. |
Just wanted to say...as a relatively new climber who is expecting to learn how to set anchors in the next year or two, I really appreciate your comments about these setups. Sometimes I can spot what's wrong very quickly, but other times it's not as obvious to my newb eyes. The comments make this a great teaching tool! Thanks a bunch.
ReplyDeleteThanks for your feedback. It has been difficult to know how much to say about anchors since there are often so many things wrong. I did post one "how to" example but it didn't get as much traffic. The guiding principle is simplicity, the fewest links in the chain, and bombproof materials. Sadly, I can't recommend any book or video.
ReplyDeleteYeah, I totally understand. I look forward to the day when I can break this nonsense down I to pieces and say, "this stinks because of x and that because of y", but most of the time I'm just throwing it all I to the " that looks waaaay too complicated to be safe" bucket and moving on. Until I get better at it, gym climbing for me!
ReplyDeleteThanks again,
Kelly (original anonymous poster)
Yeah, I totally understand. I look forward to the day when I can break this nonsense down I to pieces and say, "this stinks because of x and that because of y", but most of the time I'm just throwing it all I to the " that looks waaaay too complicated to be safe" bucket and moving on. Until I get better at it, gym climbing for me!
ReplyDeleteThanks again,
Kelly (original anonymous poster)