John, you're kind of a dickhead. We talked with you at the crag for a long time today and you couldn't have mentioned this to us while we were there? This is a friction wrap with a butterfly knot so we could use the remaining length on another anchor. A better way to teach people is to talk to them in person about it instead of hanging around spraying beta.
The knot and carabiner provide a backup to the friction wrap without needing to tie off the end of the rope and being able to use the rest of the line in another anchor. What would you suggest instead?
If there was a butterfly on the remaining rope and the carabiner linked from butterfly to butterfly, that would allow one side to fail and not affect the other side.
the climbers' attitude was probably assessed by John and it wasn't worth the time. i would have done the same with people who don't seem like they want to listen.
If the upper strand fails, the carabiner might provide backup. If the lower strand fails, with no knot, the end could simply whip through the carabiner. If there was a knot in the lower strand that could be better. The tree is an anchor for 2 climbs. The other anchor on Easy Layback wasn't good enough by itself, so failure of the anchor pictured would be catastrophic failure.
John, you're kind of a dickhead. We talked with you at the crag for a long time today and you couldn't have mentioned this to us while we were there?
ReplyDeleteThis is a friction wrap with a butterfly knot so we could use the remaining length on another anchor. A better way to teach people is to talk to them in person about it instead of hanging around spraying beta.
I can see what it is, you don't get that it doesn't actually accomplish anything, so talking to you would be a waste of time.
DeleteThe knot and carabiner provide a backup to the friction wrap without needing to tie off the end of the rope and being able to use the rest of the line in another anchor. What would you suggest instead?
DeleteIf there was a butterfly on the remaining rope and the carabiner linked from butterfly to butterfly, that would allow one side to fail and not affect the other side.
Deletethe climbers' attitude was probably assessed by John and it wasn't worth the time. i would have done the same with people who don't seem like they want to listen.
That's true, this only provides redundancy in the case that the top strand fails and it's impossible to tell whether the other anchor is bomber.
DeleteI've long since stopped listening to the things John Gregory spouts out, he can really ruin a climbing day with his negativity
DeleteWhether John has a a negative attitude or not, the plethora of garbage anchors at Carderock should be the primary concern.
DeleteIt is a bit hard to be positive about bad anchors.
DeleteIf the upper strand fails, the carabiner might provide backup. If the lower strand fails, with no knot, the end could simply whip through the carabiner. If there was a knot in the lower strand that could be better. The tree is an anchor for 2 climbs. The other anchor on Easy Layback wasn't good enough by itself, so failure of the anchor pictured would be catastrophic failure.
ReplyDelete