Saturday, April 21, 2018

Never miss a dead tree.

God help us, they are making more of them.

Anchor 20 feet up the tree, maximizing leverage on the poor plant.

Why use the rope when you can add a cordalette and carabiner?

Gym climbers don't own packs so they bring their Ikea bags. A pricey pair of climbing shoes are inside so anyone can grab them. Not a soul around up here.

Very dead tree.

"OK I know these knots work, but I'll add a $20 carabiner someone can steal."  Are things really stolen from anchors? Yes.

4 comments:

  1. Not only are carabiners sometimes stolen from anchors at CR, last weekend some jackhole tried to steal my rope at GF while I was downclimbing to start the route! I got the base base in time to grab the rope and pull it back down before it disappeared. Craziness out there.

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  2. Awesome, i actually made it to Dumbanchors! I'm the one using the gold cord with the black static line. Tell me Sensei, how could I improve my anchoring techniques so as not to do the atrocities you see?

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    1. Using the gold cord and the carabiner added 2 unnecessary points of failure, just tie the black rope to the tree. The anchor should be at the base of the tree to minimize torque of the tree.

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    2. You're absolutely right, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with it either. Why I like to use the cord, it allows to to easily adjust the anchor length when I'm re-positioning the master point for different climbs. it is also one of the ways I learned from and AMGA SPI certified instructor. The other anchor point, yes it is not at the base of the tree, but did you see where the base of the tree is with respect to the top of the rocks. It would require to turn the rope down over the sharp rock to get down there. While yes, not ideal to be that high up, it is also a very strong tree with significant girth. Again, nothing fundamentaly wrong.

      If you ever see me out there again. come talk to me about it. No need to be all self righteous and holy.

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