Yard Sale

Single strand webbing is begging to be cut on those quartz nubbins.

All 8 mil, all the time.

The red loop anchors two blue single strands to two climbing ropes. They are sawing every time they are weighted.

ROCK!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OGwifGkLqBL9LXnpVz16Sy7qvEfUCeC_/view?fbclid=IwAR1dd_a1O8XgShlbYKgZsavrPM3O7lbgThrgBQhWz44WT-E5C1oU29AXzqA

Perfect

The AMGA death knot.

I thought it was equalized.

Grind right up against the gate on that carabiner. 

How big is big enough?

It's a "redirect", but it still needs to work.

Not as bad as it looked.

Not as large as feared.

Close up, see the line of dirt from the plants that grew in the cracks.

Your helmet would only be a way for them to find your head.

Strangling hikers on Sunday.

Stay on the trail or else.

The 8mm rope is way up the tree, That is not actually a tensionless anchor. The runner is almost forcing the non-locking carabiner gate open.

Adding the loose rocks makes it so much better.

Deadly loose block.

A block near the top of the right side of Jan's Face is loose. It moves under body weight.

Rule number one: No unnecessary links in the chain.

What's wrong: 1. Anchor 4 feet up the tree maximizing leverage on the tree. 2. Clove hitch  that is not ideal when you can't see it, it can jump onto the carabiner gate. 3. Unnecessary carabiner and runner, there is enough rope to tie off at the base of the tree.

The tree is practically on stilts. Wouldn't be too bad if the other anchor wasn't a DEAD TREE.

Same problem with unnecessary links. Look at the pile of extra rope.

A mind at work?

OK there are four knots, and whatever that carabiner is supposed to do.

Only two knots, but the carabiner is side loaded. With leverage from the tree it could break.

Missed it by THAT much. They went a long way to trees when rocks were closer.

Pandemic

He learned the fancy auto block so he doesn't fly off the cliff. Too bad he didn't get the bowline right. This pandemic is courtesy of the AMGA. They said you didn't need a tie off knot.

The American Mountain Guide's Association will get people killed.

The AMGA told people 6" of tail on a figure 8 was OK without a stopper knot. No surprise we have an epidemic of bowlines without stoppers, very dangerous.

The other anchor was single strand webbing sawing over this rock with every move the climber makes.

Two anchors, one over a loose block at the top, meet at a 90 degree angle, weakening the anchor and making minor access loading on the carabiners very likely.

Definitely not what the AMGA recommended, the law of unintended consequences.