Thursday, July 2, 2020

The American Mountain Guide's Association will get people killed.

The AMGA told people 6" of tail on a figure 8 was OK without a stopper knot. No surprise we have an epidemic of bowlines without stoppers, very dangerous.

The other anchor was single strand webbing sawing over this rock with every move the climber makes.

Two anchors, one over a loose block at the top, meet at a 90 degree angle, weakening the anchor and making minor access loading on the carabiners very likely.
Definitely not what the AMGA recommended, the law of unintended consequences.


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