The AMGA told people 6" of tail on a figure 8 was OK without a stopper knot. No surprise we have an epidemic of bowlines without stoppers, very dangerous. |
The other anchor was single strand webbing sawing over this rock with every move the climber makes. |
Two anchors, one over a loose block at the top, meet at a 90 degree angle, weakening the anchor and making minor access loading on the carabiners very likely. |
Definitely not what the AMGA recommended, the law of unintended consequences. |
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