Sunday, May 27, 2018

You're not going to die, so why is it a bad idea?

This was rigged by an instructor, this school no longer requires certification.  Is a clove hitch safe? Often, but it isn't bombproof when it is out of sight. Any added links in the belay chain introduce risk. There is plenty of beefy static to tie to this tree, the 8MM cordalette and single carabiner are not needed, so they are an unnecessary risk. "But it is one of two anchors." All anchors should be bombproof, full stop, no exceptions, ever.

Friday, May 25, 2018

It's not cool to run your anchor rope across a trail.

Having one anchor five times longer than the other means there is no equalization , this anchor really isn't in the game at all.

Thursday, May 24, 2018

Too late to be easily fixed.

The tie that was undercut disappeared in the flood. The Excess Fund has a work day scheduled June 2. What will they do?

Having never been to Carderock, the NPS employee went a bit overboard, seeming to close the cliff.

Sunday, May 13, 2018

Why can't this get fixed?

These ties were placed to stop erosion 38 years ago. They need new landscaping mat to stop erosion from recent floods.

All it takes is digging a trench that floods already started, and replacing the old mat. No permits needed for repairs and trivial expense.

Saturday, May 12, 2018

How about using a knot?

They had plenty of static rope, they didn't need the added risk of carabiners and 8mm cord.

Friday, May 11, 2018

Perfect day, but all about the money.


Perfect day, the access poobahs said "Meet us at 12:30." At 11:15 they said they were going to the gym.

Their acolytes were making money. The Climbing Industrial Complex rules.