Thursday, January 1, 2015

Santa brought new gear.

New 100' of static. You wouldn't want that nice new rope near the rock, right?

Shiny new gear. They're from Colorado, don't know if they heard the rock doesn't hold gear.


  1. What do you mean by that comment? Their equalization method looks terrible and sloppy, and at least one carabiner is loading over an edge, but the red tricam looks like a decent placement (aside from the carabiner flipping the sling), and the rock appears to be solid. Hard to tell from this angle though..

    1. The rock at Great Falls and Carderock is micha-schist and will not take trad gear. The most common method for setting up TR anchors at these locations is to tie off of trees and boulders. This video shows the result of using trad gear in this type of rock:

      Active and passive pro will pull out when loaded.

    2. Although that is true for the majority of routes, the Metagreywacke found along the falls host better placements. There are cracks that have smooth insides and I found a stuck tricam I took a hammer to with no success. Plus Ive built many top belay systems at Great Falls as for a good skill/practice to master anywhere...Good video by the way