Thursday, December 31, 2015
Wednesday, December 30, 2015
Not what he thought.
Sunday, December 27, 2015
A rope that could tie off the Titanic.
Monday, December 21, 2015
First time in recorded history.
Sunday, December 20, 2015
Any anchor that needs 2 four foot daisy chains has got to be a mistake.
Saturday, December 19, 2015
Friday, December 18, 2015
You can call it a backup, but it's still a bad anchor
Sunday, December 13, 2015
72 Degrees and Feverish Behavior.
Ten feet up the tree, not the usual tree, that is the other anchor. |
The now familiar webbing-carabiner combination adding unnecessary links to the chain. |
The usual anchor 20 feet up a tree. |
If you use the same anchor, it isn't redundant. That said, the tree is bomber. |
Flying anchor from the tree in the air, the roots aren't in much soil on that ledge. |
Second anchor, at least the carabiner isn't on the rock. |
The green to red anchor has a single carabiner on a sharp edge. |
Another flying anchor, with single carabiners. |
The brown webbing isn't doing anything, tiny cams are doing all the work. |
Most of the webbing sheaths aren't where the rope contacts the rock. |
Lots of cordalettes girth hitched to webbing. The cord can cut through the webbing. |
He moved the rope and ran it over the edges. |
Saturday, December 12, 2015
Beautiful day, ugly anchors
Lots of girth hitches, webbing running over edges. |
Worst placement ever on the left, not much better on the right. The block is big but loose, so the cams are levering it up. |
Run your anchor across the trail. |
Too high on the tree, slings and carabiners, despite lots of rope. |
Bowlines with no stopper knots and too short tails. |
Webbing when they had lots of rope. |
Run your anchor over your friend's. |
Scrawny tree, webbing etc. |
One loose rock as an anchor. |
Friday, December 11, 2015
Old enough to know better.
Monday, December 7, 2015
Solo climbing season
Sunday, December 6, 2015
More mysteries
Saturday, December 5, 2015
Unclear on the idea of "redundant
Friday, December 4, 2015
Lots of thought, about half bad.
Five anchors for this climb, each compromised. Three points of failure here, when one would be safer. |
The two carabiner gates are opposed, but not reversed. Both gates are pressing against the rock. |
The white anchors are 180 degrees apart, weakening the entire system. Everything depends on that one carabiner. |
The rock at topic about 2 feet long and may be entirely unattached. |
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