Yes, placing pro in schist is a sketchy prospect, but in "There is a good anchor, but the micro cam in a loose block and a small nut on the right, really don't help" you are not showing the entire anchor system. While I would not bother to climb on schist like this, it does look like they might have one bomber anchor (that you omit in the photo) backed up by two not so good anchors on an equalette? What would be way more helpful is if you showed the best anchoring systems on these obviously popular routes. It is clear that your target audience is not reading your blog, otherwise you'd be running out of material to post. What about working with the local land manager to post signage or pamphlets on proper techniques?
Yes, placing pro in schist is a sketchy prospect, but in "There is a good anchor, but the micro cam in a loose block and a small nut on the right, really don't help" you are not showing the entire anchor system. While I would not bother to climb on schist like this, it does look like they might have one bomber anchor (that you omit in the photo) backed up by two not so good anchors on an equalette? What would be way more helpful is if you showed the best anchoring systems on these obviously popular routes. It is clear that your target audience is not reading your blog, otherwise you'd be running out of material to post. What about working with the local land manager to post signage or pamphlets on proper techniques?
ReplyDeleteAlso, you claim that there is a loose block, but it doesn't come through in your photo.
ReplyDelete