Friday, June 10, 2016

More than a choice.

The rope goes to a small tree, but the nut is questionable: first, the rock breaks, second, there are lots of placements and the guy had an enormous rack, third the outward pull cries for pieces in opposition.
The stopper is in its weakest orientation, sideways, with the smallest area of contact with the rock. The guy had bigger gear, and there are lot of options for other placements.

How to make a good anchor bad. The primary is Bluewater II static rope (true static not sorta static). He then adds a secondary that is unloaded when unweighted but becomes the primary when loaded. It is completely side loading the carabiners.

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