I don't know what route they were planning to lead, and there is a moronic page on Mountain Project calling Eight Ball a trad route, but there are routes at Carderock that eat passive gear and are perfectly fine to fall on given that the leader is competent placing said gear. Twice, I have fallen here on passive gear without any issues. That said, sticking cams into some of the flakes here is pretty stupid.
You were lucky, check out the youtube video of the guy cratering at Great Falls aiding Dark Corner. Yesterday, by chance, I discovered what may the first accident report of injury from gear failing. It was a bolt pulling in 1954. You can find it online at the AAC.
I don't know what route they were planning to lead, and there is a moronic page on Mountain Project calling Eight Ball a trad route, but there are routes at Carderock that eat passive gear and are perfectly fine to fall on given that the leader is competent placing said gear. Twice, I have fallen here on passive gear without any issues. That said, sticking cams into some of the flakes here is pretty stupid.
ReplyDeleteYou were lucky, check out the youtube video of the guy cratering at Great Falls aiding Dark Corner. Yesterday, by chance, I discovered what may the first accident report of injury from gear failing. It was a bolt pulling in 1954. You can find it online at the AAC.
ReplyDelete