Sunday, May 27, 2018

You're not going to die, so why is it a bad idea?

This was rigged by an instructor, this school no longer requires certification.  Is a clove hitch safe? Often, but it isn't bombproof when it is out of sight. Any added links in the belay chain introduce risk. There is plenty of beefy static to tie to this tree, the 8MM cordalette and single carabiner are not needed, so they are an unnecessary risk. "But it is one of two anchors." All anchors should be bombproof, full stop, no exceptions, ever.

Friday, May 25, 2018

It's not cool to run your anchor rope across a trail.

Having one anchor five times longer than the other means there is no equalization , this anchor really isn't in the game at all.

Thursday, May 24, 2018

Too late to be easily fixed.

The tie that was undercut disappeared in the flood. The Excess Fund has a work day scheduled June 2. What will they do?

Having never been to Carderock, the NPS employee went a bit overboard, seeming to close the cliff.

Sunday, May 13, 2018

Why can't this get fixed?

These ties were placed to stop erosion 38 years ago. They need new landscaping mat to stop erosion from recent floods.

All it takes is digging a trench that floods already started, and replacing the old mat. No permits needed for repairs and trivial expense.

Saturday, May 12, 2018

How about using a knot?

They had plenty of static rope, they didn't need the added risk of carabiners and 8mm cord.

Friday, May 11, 2018

Perfect day, but all about the money.


Perfect day, the access poobahs said "Meet us at 12:30." At 11:15 they said they were going to the gym.

Their acolytes were making money. The Climbing Industrial Complex rules.

Wednesday, May 9, 2018

Air is good, in anchors, not so much.


The flying right angle off the hollow tree.

After the "rogue" crew.

The access bureaucrat Calle it a rogue effort.

Well, effort is the important part.

Never underestimate what 10 angry climbers can do with scrub brushes.

Tuesday, May 8, 2018

Let's see how this outrage is handled.

This appeared either Monday or today. REI and Earth Treks make thousands of dollars every weekend at Carderock. What will their response be?


Sunday, May 6, 2018

Saturday, May 5, 2018

All anchors should be real anchors.


Does it weigh more that 30lbs? How much is in the ground?

First it was hammocks, now inflatable couches, and let your dog dig to China.

Tuesday, May 1, 2018

Good thing the magic self-equalizing knot doesn't work.

Thankfully the tiny tree isn't being loaded. The BFK doesn't equalize, not even if a certified instructor says so. Leaving the gear at the top of the crag is asking for it to disappear. A few weeks ago, at Great Falls, somebody tried to take a rig and rope while the climbers were climbing down to the start. They grabbed the ends of the rope before they disappeared.

The sleeves protect the anchor rope from the rock, from the air, not so much.