Sunday, August 6, 2017

They were pissed when we told them not to lead at Carderock.

They got huffy, and this is their anchor. There are two points, going to a single webbing runner.

It isn't quite side loaded, any bets on what happens when it is loaded?

Wednesday, August 2, 2017

More vandalism

Unsupervised summer camp kids start defacing the rocks. it happened last year, NPS made a camp remove the writing and threatened to pull their permit. This is the first time this year. There were 7 large vans in the parking lot Tuesday, I could identify 2 groups, but not the others. NPS is investigating, having the dumb kid write his name does make it easier.

Surprisingly, this mess of a knot is working. One of the carabiners is a locker, the other has its gate opening the same way, not reversed, opposed, or best of all reversed and opposed.

It's a big tree but give it a break, rigging high increases the force pulling it out. Running a moving rope over the cliff edge doesn't help either.

Tuesday, August 1, 2017

Can't blame the heat, it didn't even hit 90.

Sticking the anchor way up in the tree and running the climbing rope over edges is never a good idea.

Looks like these came from a sport climbing quickdraw. One is a bent gate made to open easier, not what you ant for a top rope anchor. Do I use non-locking carabiners? You bet, steel ovals that don't gunk up the rope and are least prone to side loading or turning over.

You can see by the slack that the two cams are holding nothing. The only active anchor is the tiny tree.

Monday, July 31, 2017

Worst idea ever.

Sure it is a big tree ut it is pretty hollow. This guy had to tie one loop around the rope rope rather than a real knot. This is the only anchor, I would have no problem with that if it were bomber.

Yes, tensionless anchors work, not tying of the end is criminal. Fortunately he had another good anchor. If you tie one shit anchor, sooner or later you will tie two.

Sunday, July 9, 2017

Summer's best day? Less so when schools rig everything all day long.

The gym "instructor" rigged the active climbing rope going over sharp edges. The corner on the left developed a pile of red fibers from abrasion.

No, putting the rope above the hollow doesn't make it stronger. The knot at left is grinding  on edges of the boulder.

Monday, July 3, 2017

How many bad anchors make a good anchor?

The rope at bottom isn't bad, the one on the single branch above, not so much.

OK, it is the biggest trunk, but look at those roots. This is not an anchor, this is a bad idea.

Sunday, July 2, 2017

No, this is never OK.

The AMGA may tell you a knot to secure the tail isn't needed on a figure 8, nobody will tell it isn't needed on a bowline.